All Motor Trouble Shooting Guide

Contents
Table of Contents ………………………………………………………………. 1
Introduction and Safety Notice ……………………………………………….. 2
General Troubleshooting Information
Recommended Marine Shop Electrical Test Equipment and Tools ………………………. 3
Tricks to Testing with Minimal Test Equipment ………………………………………….. 4
Voltage Drop Measurement………..………….…….…….….………………….………… 5
Johnson/Evinrude Model to Year Identification for 1980 and Up Engines ………………. 5
Engine Wiring Cross Reference Chart……………………………………………………. 6
ABYC Color Chart ………………………………………………………………………. 7
Chrysler Troubleshooting
Battery CD Ignitions…………………………………………………………………….… 8
Magnapower II Ignitions…..……………………………………………………………… 9
Capacitive Discharge Ignitions with Alternator………………………………………….. 10-12
Force Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven Ignitions (Prestolite)………………………………………………….. 13-16
Alternator Driven Ignitions (Brunswick)………………………………………………… 17-20
Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Battery CD Ignitions…………………………………………………………………….... 21-22
Alternator Driven Ignitions 1972-78 W/Screw Terminal Power Packs………………..... 23-25
Alternator Driven Ignitions 1978-99…………………………………………………….. 26-31
60 Optical 6 Cylinder engines…………………………………………………………… 32-35
60 Optical 4 Cylinder engines…………………………………………………………… 36-39
Mercury Troubleshooting
Battery CD Ignitions W/Points………………………………………………………….. 40
Battery CD Ignitions W/O Points……………………………………………………….. 41-44
Alternator Driven Ignitions…………………………………………………………….... 45-55
Mercury/Force CDM Ignitions System Troubleshooting
2 Cylinder CDM Ignitions …………………………………………………….…………. 56
3 Cylinder CDM Ignitions ……………………………………………………………….. 57
4 Cylinder CDM Ignitions …………………………………………………….…………. 58
6 Cylinder CDM Ignitions …………………………………………………….………….. 59-60
Appendix
DVA (Peak Voltage) and Resistance Charts (Introduction)………………………………. 61
Chrysler DVA and Resistance Charts……………………………..……………………… 62
Force DVA and Resistance Charts……………………………………….………………. 63
Johnson/Evinrude DVA and Resistance Charts …………………….……………………. 64-65
OMC Sea Drive DVA and Resistance Charts ……………………………………………. 66
Mercury DVA and Resistance Charts…………………………………………………….. 67-69
Yamaha DVA and Resistance Charts…………………………………………………….. 70-75
Glossary of Terms …….………………………………………………………………….. 76
CDI Technical Service Bulletin OMC 3 Cyl 60, 65 and 70 HP engines ............................ 77
Force Engine wiring diagrams …………………………………………………………… 78-80
Johnson/Evinrude QuickStart Flywheel Trigger Magnet Orientation …………………… 81
OMC Stern Drive Electronic Shift Assist Applications and Wiring Diagrams ………….. 82-84
Troubleshooting Guide Rev B – 7 July 2006 3
Recommended Marine Shop Electrical Test Equipment and Tools
The following is a listing of tools available from CDI Electronics and recommended for testing late model engines:
Part Number Description Remarks/Use
511-9764 Neon Spark Tester Sealed single cylinder has removable ground clamp
can be used for running tests
511-9766 Sealed spark Gap Tester Allows for testing up to 8 cylinder for cranking
tests. Sealed design reduces the chance of engine fire.
511-9770 Piercing Probes Allows access to wires for testing without removing
the connection. Tiny hole usually reseals itself.
511-9773 DVA (Peak Voltage)Adapter Unit automatically compensates for polarity.
511-9775 Load Resistor Used to load the output of ignition modules when
testing ignition coils.
518-33A CDI 33 Meter Meter has voltage, amperage, diode check and ohms
Includes 511-9773 DVA Adapter DVA Adapter allows meter to read peak voltage
518-80TK Fluke Temperature Adapter Works with most digital Multimeters capable of
reading millivolts.
520-ST80 DC Inductive Timing Light DC Powered timing light with a very bright strobe light.
551-33GF Gearcase Filler w/Check Valve Universal design makes filling lower units easier. Check valve
assembly helps prevent oil spills and makes filling easier.
551-34PV Pressure/Vacuum Tester Repairable metal combination unit does both
vacuum and pressure testing.
551-5110 Flywheel Holder Longer handle helps during use.
551-9765 Spark Plug Wire Puller Grounded design reduces the chances of shocking.
553-2700 Amphenol Pin Tool Set Set contains 1 each of 553-2697 (Insertion), 553-2698 (Pin
Removal) and 553-2699 (Socket Removal)
553-9702 Sensor Gap Gauge Tool Used to set the timer-base air gap on 1973-1978 OMC 3 and 4
cylinder engines with screw terminal power packs.
554-9706 Amp Pin Removal Tool Used to remove the connector pins in the ignition system on
Chrysler/Force engines using the Prestolite type ignitions.
Also used on the Mercury TPI sensor connectors.
911-9783 Bullet Connector Kit Contains 10 pieces each of the male, female and sleeves.
912-9708 Marine Terminal Kit Contains 100+ pieces of hard to find terminals and heat shrink.
991-9705 Dielectric Grease Use to keep water and corrosion out of connectors.
511-6996 Remote Starter For OMC Used to replace the boat-side harness for engine testing, Fits
most OMC engines 1969 to 2000.
511-7900 Remote Starter for Mercury Used to replace the boat-side harness for engine testing, Fits
most Mercury engines 1979 to 2000.
519-LB85 Load Bank Used to load the battery when testing the battery charging output.
Optional Equipment
511-4017 OMC Optical Sensor Tester Unique handheld tester that will efficiently test the optical
ignition sensor.
511-0401 CDI 2 Cylinder Ignition Tester New hand-held ignition tester generates high-voltage stator
and low voltage trigger signals to test a variety of 2 cylinder
ignition systems. Engine specific adapters are required.
Includes 511-0402, 511-0403 and 511-0404 adapters.
520-ST84 Ferret Ultra Bright Timing Light Ultra bright timing light is visible in bright sunlight. Also has
a built-in tachometer for 2 and 4 stroke engines. This feature is a valuable diagnostic tool when troubleshooting ignition
system problems. 4
Tricks to Testing with Minimal Test Equipment
All Engines
Please keep detailed records when you repair an engine. If an engine comes in with one cylinder not firing, mark which one on the work order/history.
Intermittent Firing: This problem can be very hard to isolate. A good inductive tachometer can be used to compare the RPM on all cylinders up through WOT (wide-open throttle). A significant difference in the RPM readings can help pinpoint a problem quickly.
Visually Check the Stator, Trigger, Rectifier/Regulator and Flywheel: Cracks, burned areas and bubbles in or on the components indicate a problem. If the battery charge windings on the stator are dark brown, black or burned on most or all of the posts, the rectifier/regulator is likely shorted as well. Any sign of rubbing on the outside of the stator indicates a problem in the upper or lower main bearings. A cracked trigger or outer charging magnets can cause many problems ranging from misfiring to no fire at all. Loose flywheel magnets can be dangerous, check the tightness of the bonding adhesive.
Rectifier/Regulators can cause problems ranging from a high-speed miss to a total shutdown. An easy check is to disconnect the stator leads to the rectifier (Make sure to insulate them) and retest. If the problem is gone – replace the rectifier/regulator.
Johnson/Evinrude
Open Timer Bases: When all cylinders fire with the spark plugs out, but will not with them installed, try re-gapping the sensors using P/N: 553-9702 Gap Gauge. (See the section on OMC ADI Ignitions page 22-24).
Engines with S.L.O.W. Features: If the customer is complaining that the engine won’t rev up and shakes real bad, the S.L.O.W. function could be activating. If the engine is NOT overheating, a temperature sensor or VRO sensor failing early can cause this problem. Disconnect the TAN wires at the power pack and retest. If the engine performs normally, reconnect the tan wires one at a time until the problem recurs, then replace the last sensor you connected. Make sure that all of the TAN wires are located as far as possible from the spark plug wires. Also check the blocking diode in the engine harness.
Mercury 6 Cylinder Engines with ADI Ignitions
If more than one cylinder is not firing: Replace BOTH switch boxes unless you can pin the problem down to the trigger. Replacing just one switch box can result in damage to the engine if the remaining switch box on the engine has a problem in the bias circuit.
Always check the bias circuit: Disconnect the White/Black jumper between the switch boxes and check the resistance from the White/Black terminal on each switch box to engine ground. You should read 12-15,000 ohms on stock switch boxes, and 9,000-9,800 ohms on racing switch boxes. MAKE SURE THE READING IS THE SAME ON BOTH SWITCH BOXES! Any problem with the bias circuit and BOTH switch boxes must be replaced as a set.
No Fire on 1, 3, 5 or 2, 4, 6: Swap the stator leads from one switch box to the other. If the problem moves, replace the stator. If the problem remains on the same cylinders, replace the switch box. If the stator is replaced and the problem is still present, try another flywheel.
No Fire on One Cylinder: This can be caused by a defective blocking diode in the other switch box. Disconnect the White/Black jumper between the switch boxes and retest. If all cylinders are now firing, replace the switch box that was originally firing all three cylinders. To verify this condition, swap the trigger leads on the switch box that was originally firing all three cylinders. If the misfire moves to another cylinder, the switch box is bad. 5
Voltage Drop Measurement
Start by using a good digital auto-ranging voltmeter capable of reading 1/10th of a volt. The use of an auto-ranging meter will allow for more accurate testing without damaging the meter due to an incorrect range setting.
Remove the spark plug wires form the spark plugs and connect them to a spark gap tester and remove the emergency stop clip as well. This prevents the engine from starting and also reduces the chance of getting shocked by the ignition system.
The use of an ohmmeter to test a conductor or switch contact for their condition is not the best tool to use. In most cases, it is preferable to use a volt drop test to make sure the conductor, as well as the connection, is in good condition.
Before testing, remove and clean all battery cables and connection points.
Testing the Positive Battery Cable to the Engine
1. Select the DC Volts position on the meter.
2. Connect the Red (Positive) lead on the meter to the positive battery POST.
3. Connect the Black (Negative) lead on the meter to the starter solenoid terminal where the positive battery cable is connected.
4. Using a remote start switch, activate the starter solenoid to spin the engine and observe the reading on the meter. A reading above 0.6V indicates a bad cable or bad connection.
(a) If the meter reads above 0.6V, move the Black lead on the meter to the positive battery cable terminal on the starter solenoid and retest. If the reading drops to below 0.6V, the cable connection is bad.
(b) If the meter still reads above 0.6V, move the Black lead on the meter to the positive battery cable terminal on the battery and retest. If the reading drops to below 0.6V, the cable is bad or undersized.

Service Note: A bad power connection to the ignition or battery charging system can be found by connecting the Black lead on the meter to the power connection of the ignition system or charging system; then working your way back to the battery positive post. At no time should you see a reading above 1V.
Testing the Negative Battery Cable to the Engine
1. Select the DC Volts position on the meter.
2. Connect the Black (Negative) lead on the meter to the negative battery POST.
3. Connect the Red (Positive) lead on the meter to the engine block where the negative battery cable is connected.
4. Using a remote start switch, activate the starter solenoid to spin the engine and observe the reading on the meter. A reading above 0.6V is an indicator of a bad cable or bad connection.
(a) If the meter reads above 0.6V, move the Red lead on the meter to the negative battery cable terminal on the engine block and retest. If the reading drops to below 0.6V, the cable connection is bad.
(b) If the meter still reads above 0.6V, move the Red lead on the meter to the negative battery cable terminal on the battery and retest. If the reading drops to below 0.6V, the cable is bad or undersized.

A bad ground connection to the ignition and battery charging system can be found by connecting the Red lead on the meter to the ground connection of the ignition or battery charging system; then working your way back to the battery negative post. At no time should you see a reading above 1V.
Johnson/Evinrude Model to Year Identification for 1980 and newer Engines
“INTRODUCES”
I N T R O D U C E S
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0
Example: J150TTLCE would be a 1989 150 HP Johnson and aE175STEU would be a 1997 175 HP Evinruide.6 Engine Wiring Cross Reference Chart for Most Outboards
Circuit Mercury PRE- 1978 Mercury 1978 & UP OMC Yamaha Force PRE- 1994 Force 1994 & UP Suzuki
Power Red Red Red Red Red Red/Purple White
Ign Switch White Purple Purple Yellow Blue Red/Blue Gray
Eng Gnd Black Black Black Black Black Black Black
Kill Circuit Orange Salmon White Blk/Yellow Blk/Yellow White White Blk/Yellow Green Red Blue
Eng Start Yellow Yellow/Red Yellow/Red Brown Yellow Yellow/Red Brown Yellow/Red
Tach Brown Gray Gray Green Purple Gray Yellow
Battery Charge Yellow/Red Yellow Yellow/Blk Yellow Yellow/Gry Green Yellow Yellow Yellow/Blk Yellow/Red
Stator CDI Power Red White Blue(a) Blue Blue/White Red Red/White Green/Wht Wht/Green Brown Brown/Yel Brown/Blk Brown/Wht Blue Brown Red Blk/Red Blue Yellow Brown/Blue Brown/Yel Blue Blue/White Red Red/White Green/Wht Wht/Green Green Black/Red
Choke Gray Blue Yellow/Blk Purple/Wht Blue Green Yellow/Blk Orange
Overheat Eng Temp Tan Tan Tan (b) White/Blk(c) Pink Orange Tan Green/Yel
(a) Ignition Driver systems only, all others were battery driven systems. (b) The stripe color on the Tan wire indicates the temperature at which the sensor trips. (c) The White/Black wire is the cold engine temp indicator and shorts to Gnd at approx 105 deg F.
Blk = Black Wht = White Gry = Gray
Yel = Yellow Blk = Black
ABYC Recommended Boat Wiring Color Codes
Color Function Comments
Yellow/Red Stripe (YR) Engine Start Circuit
Brown/Yellow Stripe (BY) Bilge Blower Alternate color is Yellow (Y)
Yellow Stripe (Y) Bilge Blower If used for DC negative, blower MUST be Brown/Yellow Stripe.
Dark Gray (Gy) Navigation Lights Fuse or Switch to lights
Dark Gray (Gy) Tachometer
Brown (Br) Generator/Alternator Charge Indicator Lights, Fuse or switch to pumps.
Orange (O) Accessory Power Ammeter to alternator output and accessory fuse or switches. Distribution Panel accessory switch.
Purple (Pu) Ignition Instrument power Ignition switch to coil and electrical instruments , Distribution Panel to electric instruments.
Dark Blue Cabin and instrument lights Fuse or switch to lights.
Light Blue (Lt Bl) Oil Pressure Oil sender to gauge.
Tan Water Pressure Temperature sender to gauge.
Pink (Pk) Fuel Gauge Fuel sender to gauge.
Green/White Stripe Tilt/Trim down or in Tilt and Trim circuits
Blue/White Stripe Tilt/Trim up or out Tilt and Trim circuits
Chrysler Troubleshooting
Points Type Ignitions with Amplifiers (Power packs)
(Preamps are electronic replacements for points)
A large proportion of the problems with the battery CD units are caused by low battery voltage or bad ground connections. Low voltage symptoms are weak fire or erratic firing of cylinders. Maintenance free batteries are NOT recommended for this application.
WARNING!! Battery reversal will cause severe damage to the CD module and rectifier.
NOTE: The Chrysler CD modules are similar to the OMC CD modules with the exception of wire colors. The chart below will assist you as a general guideline for the Chrysler units:
Red +12V from battery (RF Noise Filter)
Blue +12V from the Key Switch
Gray + Terminal of ignition coil
White OEM Tachometer signal
White/Black Stripe Points or Preamp Module
Black Engine ground
No Fire at All:
1. Clean all battery connections and engine grounds.
2. Make sure the CD module is grounded. Units using rubber shock mounts require a ground wire fastened from the pack to the engine block.
3. Connect a spark gap tester to the high tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately ½”. If it fires when you crank the engine over, there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires.

Wiring Connection for Testing CD Module

NOTE: Preamps are an electronic version of points and the ignition module will test the same for both.
4. Check voltage present on the blue wire at cranking. It MUST be at least 9½ volts. If not, the problem is likely in the harness, key switch, starter or battery.
5. Connect a DC voltmeter to the white/black wire (while it is connected to the distributor) and rotate the engine. There should be some fluctuation in the meter reading. If the reading is high, and fails to move up and down, there is definitely a problem inside the distributor. If the reading is low, disconnect the white/black wire from the distributor and with the key switch turned on, strike the white/black wire against engine ground. The unit should fire each time. If it does, then the CD module is usually good and the points (or Preamp) require checking. If the CD module fails to fire with this test, then the CD module is usually bad.
6. Check DVA voltage on the gray wire going to the coil, it should be approximately 200 volts at cranking. If the voltage is correct, replace the coil with another coil and retest or use a load resister if another coil is not available. A coil that is shorted internally will give a low reading. In this case replace the coil and retry.

After repairing the engine, check the battery voltage at approximately 3500 RPM, The MAXIMUM allowable voltage reading is 16 volts and the minimum is 12V. Running below 12V or over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery.

Magnapower II Systems
1. Disconnect the white and blue kill wires from the CD Module and retest. If the engine starts and runs, the key-switch or kill circuit is bad.
2. Connect a DC voltmeter from the kill wires to engine ground and turn the ignition switch on and off several times. At no time should you see battery voltage on the kill circuit.
3. Connect a spark gap tester to all cylinders and test with the spark plugs in and out. If the coils will not fire with the spark plugs in, check compression with the spark plugs removed from all cylinders. A blown head gasket on these engines can prevent the coils from firing with the spark plugs installed. This is caused by a hard to explain problem with the triggering circuit.
4. Crank the engine with the starter and then stop. Check the DVA voltage on terminals T1 and T4. You should read between 170 and 270 volts Positive on terminal T1 and between 170, and 270 volts Negative on terminal T4. (Remember that some DVA adapters are not polarized and will read the same regardless of the polarity). If there is a low reading on one of the terminals, disconnect the white/blue and green/white trigger wires, then retest. If the readings are now correct, one of the trigger modules is bad. A continued low reading may be caused by a bad capacitor. To test, use a couple of jumper wires and swap the green and white capacitor wires going to terminals T1 and T4. If the low reading remains on the same terminal, the CD is bad. If it moves when you move the capacitor wires, the capacitor is shorted.
5. Check to see if the ignition coils are wired correctly. The #1 coil on a two cylinder engine and the #1 & 2 cylinder on a four cylinder engine are wired as NEGATIVE GROUND. The #2 coil on a two cylinder engine and the #3 & 4 cylinder on a four cylinder engine are wired as POSITIVE GROUND.
Chrysler Troubleshooting
Capacitive Discharge Module with Alternator
(ADI – Alternator Driven Ignition)
General Troubleshooting
1. Disconnect the kill wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires and engine ground. Turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A KILL CIRCUIT.
2. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
3. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them.
4. Visually inspect the stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.

IF NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect all kill wires AT THE PACK.
2. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger.
3. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, or CD-77 and 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, reading’s should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 – 800 ohms (factory) and 400 – 500 (CDI/RAPAIR).
4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.

NO FIRE OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator resistance, you should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow (Note – On some two cylinder engines, the stator has two blue wires and no yellow wire. The stator will read from blue to blue). All stator wires should read open to engine ground.
2. Check the trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-5V or more), and open to engine ground.
3. If readings are good, disconnect kill wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts firing, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.

NO FIRE ON TWO CYLINDERS:
If two cylinders from the same CD unit will not fire, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.
ENGINE WILL NOT KILL:
Check kill circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the kill wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this kills the pack, the kill circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, possibly the ignition switch.
COILS ONLY FIRE WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT:
Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.
HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack.
2. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.

Two Cylinder Engines with Combination CD Module with Built-in Ignition Coils
NO FIRE OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator resistance, you should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow (Note – On some two cylinder engines, the stator has two blue wires and no yellow wire. The stator will read from blue to blue). All stator wires should read open to engine ground.
2. Check the trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-5V or more), and open to engine ground.
3. If readings are good, disconnect kill wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts firing, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:
Check kill circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the kill wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this kills the pack, the kill circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, the ignition switch could also be bad.

Chrysler/Force Troubleshooting
Prestolite Capacitive Discharge Module with Alternator
(ADI – Alternator Driven Ignition)
Two Cylinder Engines Using a Separate Switch Box and Ignition Coils
1. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT.
2. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
3. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them.
4. Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.

IF NO FIRE ON EITHER CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect all stop wires AT THE PACK.
2. Check for broken or bare wires on the ignition module, stator and trigger.
3. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, or CD-77 and 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, reading’s should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets ranges from 680 – 800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR).
4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator resistance, you should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 400 – 500 (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow (Note – On some two cylinder engines, the stator has two blue wires and no yellow wire. The stator will read from blue to blue). All stator wires should read open to engine ground.
2. Check the trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-5V or more), and open to engine ground.
3. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT STOP:
Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the white stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to the white stop wire coming out of the other pack. If this stops all spark from the pack, the stop circuit in the engine harness or on the boat is bad, the ignition switch could also be bad.
COILS ONLY HAS SPARK WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT:
Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.
HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack.
2. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

Three and Four Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils
1. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them.
2. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
3. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT.
4. Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.

IF NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect stop wire AT THE PACK.
2. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger.
3. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, or CD-77 and 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, reading s should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 – 800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR).
4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.


Chrysler/Force

Chrysler/Force Troubleshooting
Capacitive Discharge Module with Alternator
(ADI – Alternator Driven Ignition)
Three and Four Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils (Continued)
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator and trigger resistance; the trigger wire sets should read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-5V or more), the stator should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow.
2. If readings are good, disconnect the stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.

NO SPARK ON TWO CYLINDERS:
If two cylinders from the same CD unit will not spark, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.
ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:
Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops the pack from sparking, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, the ignition switch could also be bad.
COILS ONLY HAS SPARK WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT:
Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.
HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Using the Fluke meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack.
2. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

Pack #1 (Firing #1 and #2 Cylinders) Pack #3 (Firing #4 and #5 Cylinders)
Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe
White/Yellow White/Yellow (a) White/Yellow White/Yellow (a)
White/Red White/Red (a) White/Red White/Red (a)
White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe
Pack: Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe Pack: Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe
Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe
Pack: Orange/Blue Coil: White Pack: Orange/Blue Coil: White
Blue/Red White Blue/Red White
P Pack #2 (Firing #3 Cylinder)
Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe
White/Yellow White/Yellow (a)
White/Red No Connection
White/Green Stripe No Connection
Pack: Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe
Brown/Blue No Connection (must be connected to the blue terminal on pack 1)
Pack: Orange/Blue Coil: White
Blue/Red No Connection
(a) CDI replacement triggers do not have a connection for this wire from the power pack as the new trigger uses a common ground wire. This allows the wires going to the power pack from the trigger to be larger and more durable. The power pack uses that color as a ground wire for the trigger.
Color Code Cross Reference
FUNCTION OLD NEW
Trigger Orange White/Orange Stripe
Trigger Green White/Yellow Stripe
Trigger Red White/Red Stripe White/Green Stripe
Trigger White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe
Stator Blue Brown/Blue Stripe
Stator Yellow Brown/Yellow Stripe
Pack Output to Coil Orange Orange/Blue
Pack Output to Coil Red Blue/Red
Ignition Coil White Orange/Blue
Stop Circuit White Black/Yellow 13
Force Troubleshooting
Prestolite ADI Ignitions 1984-1992
General
1. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them.
2. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
3. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT.
4. Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.

IF THERE IS NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the stop wire AT THE PACK.
2. Check for broken or bare wires on the CD Module, stator and trigger.

3. Check the stator resistance and output using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter and 511-9770 piercing probes, as follows:
Read Form Read To Resistance (OEM) Resistance (CDI) DVA (connected) DVA (disconnected)
Yellow Blue 680-850 250-350 180V or more 200 V or more
Yellow Engine Gnd Open Open 180 V or more (a) 2 V or less (b)
Blue Engine Gnd Open Open 180 V or more (a) 2 V or less (b)
NOTE: Remember that the stator may use Brown/Yellow or Brown/Black/Yellow for Yellow and Brown/Blue or Brown/Black/Blue for Blue.
(a) The DVA reading to engine ground is checking a circuit inside the power pack. If the readings are not fairly equal, swap the stator wires going to the power pack and recheck. If the low reading stays on the same wire from the stator, replace the stator. Otherwise, replace the power pack.
(b) Most meters will pick up a small amount of voltage due to inductive pick-up. As long as the voltage is very low, it will not indicate a problem.

4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator and trigger resistance; the trigger wire sets should read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-.5V or more), the stator should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow.
2. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.

NO SPARK ON TWO CYLINDERS:
If two cylinders from the same CD unit have no spark, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.
ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:
Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops the pack from sparking, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, the ignition switch could also be bad.
COILS ONLY HAVE SPARK WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT:
Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.
HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack.
2. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

Two Cylinder Engines using Combination CD Module with Built-in Ignition Coils (1984-88)
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator resistance; you should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow (Note – On some two cylinder engines, the stator has two blue wires and no yellow wire. The stator will read from blue to blue). All stator wires should read open to engine ground.
2. Disconnect and check the trigger resistance; trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-0.5V or more), and open to engine ground.
3. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:
Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops the pack from firing, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad. The ignition switch could also be bad.
NO SPARK UNLESS THE SPARK PLUGS ARE OUT:
Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.
HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack.
2. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them.
4. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
5. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT.
6. Visually inspect the stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.

Three and Four Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the stop wire AT THE PACK.
2. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger.
3. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, or CD-77 and 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, reading s should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 – 800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR).
4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator and trigger resistance; trigger wire sets should read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-0.5V or more), the stator should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow.
2. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.
3. If readings are good, swap the power pack output from the ignition coil that works to the one that does not. If the coil that had spark stops sparking, replace the power pack.
ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:
Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the white stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops all spark from the pack, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad. The ignition switch could also be bad.
NO SPARK UNLESS THE SPARK PLUGS ARE OUT:
Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.
HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack.
2. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them.
4. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
5. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT.
6. Visually inspect the stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.

Three and Four Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the stop wire AT THE PACK.
2. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger.
3. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, or CD-77 and 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, reading s should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 – 800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR).
4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator and trigger resistance; trigger wire sets should read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-0.5V or more), the stator should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow.
2. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.


Force Troubleshooting
Prestolite ADI Ignitions 1984-1992
General
1. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them.
2. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
3. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT.
4. Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.

IF THERE IS NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the stop wire AT THE PACK.
2. Check for broken or bare wires on the CD Module, stator and trigger.

3. Check the stator resistance and output using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter and 511-9770 piercing probes, as follows:
Read Form Read To Resistance (OEM) Resistance (CDI) DVA (connected) DVA (disconnected)
Yellow Blue 680-850 250-350 180V or more 200 V or more
Yellow Engine Gnd Open Open 180 V or more (a) 2 V or less (b)
Blue Engine Gnd Open Open 180 V or more (a) 2 V or less (b)
NOTE: Remember that the stator may use Brown/Yellow or Brown/Black/Yellow for Yellow and Brown/Blue or Brown/Black/Blue for Blue.
(a) The DVA reading to engine ground is checking a circuit inside the power pack. If the readings are not fairly equal, swap the stator wires going to the power pack and recheck. If the low reading stays on the same wire from the stator, replace the stator. Otherwise, replace the power pack.
(b) Most meters will pick up a small amount of voltage due to inductive pick-up. As long as the voltage is very low, it will not indicate a problem.

4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator and trigger resistance; the trigger wire sets should read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-.5V or more), the stator should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow.
2. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.

NO SPARK ON TWO CYLINDERS:
If two cylinders from the same CD unit have no spark, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.
ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:
Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops the pack from sparking, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, the ignition switch could also be bad.
COILS ONLY HAVE SPARK WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT:
Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.
HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack.
2. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

Two Cylinder Engines using Combination CD Module with Built-in Ignition Coils (1984-88)
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator resistance; you should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow (Note – On some two cylinder engines, the stator has two blue wires and no yellow wire. The stator will read from blue to blue). All stator wires should read open to engine ground.
2. Disconnect and check the trigger resistance; trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-0.5V or more), and open to engine ground.
3. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:
Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops the pack from firing, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad. The ignition switch could also be bad.
Force Troubleshooting
Prestolite ADI Ignitions 1984-1992
Two Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils
GENERAL:
1. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT.
2. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
3. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them.
4. Visually inspect the stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.

IF THERE IS NO SPARK ON EITHER CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect all stop wires AT THE PACK.
2. Check for broken or bare wires on the switch box, stator and trigger.
3. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, or CD-77 and 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, reading s should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 – 800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR).
4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

IF THERE IS NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator resistance; you should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow (Note – On some two cylinder engines, the stator has two blue wires and no yellow wire. The stator will read from blue to blue). All stator wires should read open to engine ground.
2. Check the trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-0.5V or more), and open to engine ground.
3. If readings are good, swap the power pack output from the ignition coil that works to the one that does not. If the coil that had spark stops sparking, replace the power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:
Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the white stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops all spark from the pack, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad. The ignition switch could also be bad.
NO SPARK UNLESS THE SPARK PLUGS ARE OUT:
Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.

Force TroubleshootHIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack.
2. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

Pack #1 (Firing #1 and #2 Cylinders) Pack #2 (Firing #3 and #4 Cylinders)
Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe
White/Yellow White/Yellow (a) White/Yellow White/Yellow (a)
White/Red White/Red (a) White/Red White/Red (a)
White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe
Pack: Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe Pack: Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe
Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe
Pack: Orange/Blue Coil: White Pack: Orange/Blue Coil: White
Blue/Red White Blue/Red White
Pack #2 (Firing #3 Cylinder)
Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe
White/Yellow White/Yellow (a)
White/Red No Connection
White/Green Stripe No Connection
Pack: Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe
Brown/Blue No Connection (must be connected to the blue terminal on pack 1)
Pack: Orange/Blue Coil: White
Blue/Red No Connection
(a) CDI replacement triggers do not have a connection for this wire from the power pack as the new trigger uses a common ground wire. This allows the wires going to the power pack from the trigger to be larger and more durable. The power pack uses that color as a ground wire for the trigger.
Color Code Cross Reference
FUNCTION OLD NEW
Trigger Orange White/Orange Stripe
Trigger Green White/Yellow Stripe
Trigger Red White/Red Stripe White/Green Stripe
Trigger White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe
Stator Blue Brown/Blue Stripe
Stator Yellow Brown/Yellow Stripe
Pack Output to Coil Orange Orange/Blue
Pack Output to Coil Red Blue/Red
Ignition Coil White Orange/Blue
Stop Circuit White Black/Yellow
Sample Connection for a 4 Cylinder Using New Design CDI Trigger
Pack #1 (Firing #1 and #2 cylinders) Pack #2 (Firing #3 and #4 cylinders)
Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe
White/Yellow No Connection White/Yellow Stripe No Connection
White/Red No Connection White/Red No Connection
White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe
Pack: Yellow Stator: Yellow Pack: Yellow Stator: Yellow Blue Blue Blue Blue
Pack: Orange/Blue Coil #1: White Pack: Orange/Blue Coil #3: White
Pack: Blue/Red Coil #2: White Pack: Blue/Red Coil #4: White

Force Force Troubleshooting
Prestolite ADI Ignitions 1984-1992
Three and Four Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils (Continued)
NO SPARK ON TWO CYLINDERS:
If two cylinders from the same CD unit do not spark, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.
ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:
Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops the pack from firing, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad. The ignition switch could also be bad.
COILS ONLY SPARK WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT:
Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.

HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack.
2. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

Pack #1 (Firing #1 and #2 Cylinders) Pack #2 (Firing #3 and #4 Cylinders)
Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe
White/Yellow White/Yellow (a) White/Yellow White/Yellow (a)
White/Red White/Red (a) White/Red White/Red (a)
White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe
Pack: Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe Pack: Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe
Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe
Pack: Orange/Blue Coil: White Pack: Orange/Blue Coil: White
Blue/Red White Blue/Red White
Pack #2 (Firing #3 Cylinder)
Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe
White/Yellow White/Yellow (a)
White/Red No Connection
White/Green Stripe No Connection
Pack: Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe
Brown/Blue No Connection (must be connected to the blue terminal on pack 1)
Pack: Orange/Blue Coil: White
Blue/Red No Connection
(a) CDI replacement triggers do not have a connection for this wire from the power pack as the new trigger uses a common ground wire. This allows the wires going to the power pack from the trigger to be larger and more durable. The power pack uses that color as a ground wire for the trigger.
Color Code Cross Reference
FUNCTION OLD NEW
Trigger Orange White/Orange Stripe
Trigger Green White/Yellow Stripe
Trigger Red White/Red Stripe White/Green Stripe
Trigger White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe
Stator Blue Brown/Blue Stripe
Stator Yellow Brown/Yellow Stripe
Pack Output to Coil Orange Orange/Blue
Pack Output to Coil Red Blue/Red
Ignition Coil White Orange/Blue
Stop Circuit White Black/Yellow
Sample Connection for a 4 Cylinder Using New Design CDI Trigger
Pack #1 (Firing #1 and #2 cylinders) Pack #2 (Firing #3 and #4 cylinders)
Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe
White/Yellow No Connection White/Yellow Stripe No Connection
White/Red No Connection White/Red No Connection
White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe
Pack: Yellow Stator: Yellow Pack: Yellow Stator: Yellow Blue Blue Blue Blue
Pack: Orange/Blue Coil #1: White Pack: Orange/Blue Coil #3: White
Pack: Blue/Red Coil #2: White Pack: Blue/Red Coil #4: White

Force TroubleshootingForce Troubleshooting
Prestolite ADI Ignitions 1984-1992
5 Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils
IF THERE IS NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the stop wire AT THE PACK.
2. Check for broken or bare wires on the CD Modules, stator and trigger.
3. Check the stator resistance and output using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter and 511-9770 piercing probes, as follows:
Read Form Read To Resistance (OEM) Resistance (CDI) DVA (connected) DVA (disconnected)
Yellow Blue 680-850 250-350 180V or more 200 V or more
Yellow Engine Gnd Open Open 180 V or more (a) 2 V or less (b)
Blue Engine Gnd Open Open 180 V or more (a) 2 V or less (b)
NOTE: Remember that the stator may use Brown/Yellow or Brown/Black/Yellow for Yellow and Brown/Blue or Brown/Black/Blue for Blue.
(a) The DVA reading to engine ground is checking a circuit inside the power pack. If the readings are not fairly equal, swap the stator wires going to the power pack and recheck. If the low reading stays on the same wire from the stator, replace the stator. Otherwise, replace the power pack.
(b) Most meters will pick up a small amount of voltage due to inductive pick-up. As long as the voltage is very low, it will not indicate a problem.
4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator and trigger resistance; the trigger wire sets should read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-.5V or more), the stator should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow.
2. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the pack you disconnected.

NO SPARK ON TWO CYLINDERS:
If two cylinders from the same CD unit have no spark, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.
ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:
Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops the pack from sparking, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, the ignition switch could also be bad.
COILS ONLY HAVE SPARK WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT:
Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.
HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack.
2. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

Connections: 5 Cylinder
Pack #1 (Firing #1 and #2 Cylinders) Pack #3 (Firing #4 and #5 Cylinders)
Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe
White/Yellow White/Yellow (a) White/Yellow White/Yellow (a)
White/Red White/Red (a) White/Red White/Red (a)
White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe
Pack: Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe Pack: Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe
Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe
Pack: Orange/Blue Coil: White Pack: Orange/Blue Coil: White
Blue/Red White
Blue/Red White
Pack #2 (Firing #3 Cylinder)
Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe
White/Yellow White/Yellow (a)
White/Red No Connection
White/Green Stripe No Connection
Pack: Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe
No Connection Blue (must be connected to the blue terminal on pack 1)
Pack: Orange/Blue Coil: #3 White
No Connection
Blue /Red
(a) CDI replacement triggers do not have a connection for this wire from the power pack as the new trigger uses a common ground wire. This allows the wires going to the power pack from the trigger to be larger and more durable. The power pack uses that color as a ground wire for the trigger.
Color Code Cross Reference
FUNCTION OLD NEW
Trigger Orange White/Orange Stripe
Trigger Green White/Yellow Stripe
Trigger Red White/Red Stripe White/Green Stripe
Trigger White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe
Stator Blue Brown/Blue Stripe
Stator Yellow Brown/Yellow Stripe
Pack Output to Coil Orange Orange/Blue
Pack Output to Coil Red Blue/Red
Ignition Coil White Orange/Blue
Stop Circuit White Black/Yellow
Force Troubleshooting
Mercury Designed Ignitions
(1991-1996)
Two Cylinder Engines Using a Separate Switch Box and Ignition Coils
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition fires, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift-switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
4. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as follows:
Black Stator
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
Blue Blue/White 3250-3650 500-600 180V or more
Red Red/White 75-90 28-32 25V or more

Red Stator
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 500-600 180V or more
Red Stator Adapter
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE DVA
Blue Engine GND OPEN 180V or more
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTANT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem cylinder.
2. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as shown below:
Wire Color Check To (Wire Color) Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire White wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected
Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
(*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no spark on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low – disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low – the trigger is bad.

3. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:
1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping spark will likely be a bad switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders not sparking properly usually indicates a bad stator.
2. Connect a DVA meter between the stator’s Blue wire and Blue/White wires. Perform a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs usually indicates a bad stator. (Read from Blue to Engine GND if the engine has a Red stator kit installed).
3. Connect a DVA meter between the stator’s Red wire and Red/White wires. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than on the Blue wire reading indicates a bad stator.

High Speed Miss:
1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually indicates a problem in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under “No spark or Intermittent spark on One Cylinder”.
2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.


gForce Troubleshooting
Mercury Designed Ignitions
Three Cylinder Engines 1991-1996
Three Cylinder Engines Using a Single Switch Box and Three Ignition Coils
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault- check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.
4. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as outlined below:

Black Stator
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
Blue Engine GND 3250-3650 500-600 180V or more
Red Engine GND 75-90 28-32 25V or more
Red Stator
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 500-600 180V or more
Red Stator Adapter (Not Available from CDI)
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE DVA
Blue Engine GND OPEN 180V or more
NO SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders.
2. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire White/Black 800-1400 4V or more Connected
White wire White/Black 800-1400 4V or more Connected
Purple wire White/Black 800-1400 4V or more Connected
Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
Purple wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
(*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no spark on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low – disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low – the trigger is bad.

4. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-400 RPM:
1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping spark will likely be the switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders acting up usually indicate a bad stator.
2. Connect a DVA meter from the stator’s blue wire to engine ground and do a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (Check from the adapter’s blue to engine ground if the engine has a red stator kit installed).
3. Connect a DVA meter to the Red wire. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than the blue wire reading indicates a bad stator.

HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually indicates a problem in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under “No fire or Intermittent on One or More Cylinders”.
2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.
19 Four Cylinder Engines
(1991-1996)
Four Cylinder Engines Using a Single Switch Box and Four Ignition Coils
No Fire At All:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wires AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.
4. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:

Flywheel with Bolted in Magnets
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
Blue Blue/White 5000-7000 2200-2400 180V or more
Red Red/White 125-155 45-55 25V or more
Flywheel with Glued-in Magnets
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
Blue Blue/White 3250-3650 500-600 180V or more
Red Red/White 75-90 28-32 25V or more
Red Stator
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 500-600 180V or more
Red Stator Adapter
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE DVA
Blue Blue OPEN 180V or more
Blue (Each) Ground OPEN 180V or more
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. If the cylinders are only acting up above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders.
2. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Purple wire White wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected
Brown wire White/Black wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected
Purple wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
White/Black wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
(*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low – disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low – the trigger is bad.

Note: If #1 and #2, or #3 and #4 are misfiring, check the trigger as described above. The trigger uses two coils to spark four cylinders. #1 & 2 share one trigger coil and #3 & 4 share the other trigger coil. Also, the switch box is divided into two parts. The #1 and #2 cylinders spark on one half, and #3 and #4 spark on the other half of the switch box. If the trigger tests fine by the chart above, but you have two cylinders not sparking (either #1 and #2 or #3 and #4), the switch box or stator is bad.
3. If you have two cylinders not sparking (either #1 and #2 or #3 and #4), swap the stator leads end to end on the switch box (Red with red/white and blue with blue/white). If the problem moved to the other cylinders, the stator is bad. It the problem stayed on the same cylinders, the switch box is likely bad if the trigger tests within specifications.
4. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both terminals. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.


FgFour Cylinder Engines
(1991-1996)
Four Cylinder Engines Using a Single Switch Box and Four Ignition Coils (continued)
ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:
1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. If two cylinders on the same end of the switch box are dropping out, the problem is likely going to be either the switch box or trigger. A single cylinder dropping spark will likely be the trigger, switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders misfiring usually indicate a bad stator.
2. Connect a DVA meter to the stator’s blue wire and blue/white wires and do a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (Note: Check between the adapter’s blue wires if the engine has a red stator kit installed).
3. Connect a DVA meter between the Red wire and Red/White wire and do a running test. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than the blue wires indicates a bad stator.

reading on the
HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually indicates a problem in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under “No fire or Intermittent on One or More Cylinders”.
2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.

5 Cylinder with Single Switch Box
(1991-1992)
NOTE: This engine uses a battery powered inverter box to provide 250V power to the switch box. The inverter is in a 332-4797 CD module case. This unit is easily identified as the inverter has four terminals instead of the seven used on the 332-4797 CD module. The original stator’s only function is to charge the battery. CDI Electronics offers a replacement for the inverter, which combines the functions of the inverter box with the stator. The stator has a high voltage output in addition to the battery charging output, allowing the inverter box to be removed.
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Check the red wire on the converter box from the battery at cranking; Minimum voltage is 9.5V.
2. Check the DVA voltage on the purple/white terminal on the converter box at cranking. A minimum of 0.3V is needed to trigger the inverter box. If the voltage is low, check the DVA voltage from the white/black trigger to the yellow, black, brown, white and purple trigger wires. If you read 4V or more, the inverter box is likely bad.
3. Check the DVA voltage on the blue terminal on the converter box at cranking, reading should be approximately 250V.
4. CDI Electronics replacement stator only: Check the DVA output and resistance from the blue wire to engine ground. You should read a minimum of 160V DVA and 80 ohms resistance.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the DVA voltage from the white/black trigger to the yellow, black, brown, white and purple trigger wires. If you read 4V or more, the trigger is likely good.
2. Check the DVA voltage from the switch box. You should have the same reading on all of the Green Striped output wires to the ignition coils. If one cylinder reads low, swap the locations of the Green Striped wire not firing with one that has spark. If the problem moves, replace the power pack. If the no spark condition remains on the same cylinder, replace the ignition coil.

ALL CYLINDERS HAVE SPARK, BUT ENGINE WILL NOT RUN:
Disconnect the white/black wire from the switch box and check the resistance from the switch box’s white/black wire to engine ground. The reading should be approximately 8400 ohms. A low reading indicates a bad bias circuit and the switch box needs to be replaced.
Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Battery CD Ignitions with Points
DUE TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE BATTERIES, NEITHER MAINTAINENCE FREE NOR LOW MAINTAINENCE BATTERIES ARE NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THIS APPLICATION!
1. Clean all battery connections and engine grounds.
2. Check wiring as follows:
Pack Wire Color Function
Red or Purple 12V from key-switch
Blue Positive to ignition coil
Black/White To points
Black Engine Ground
Engine Wiring Connections for Testing Ignition Module


3. Connect a spark gap tester to the high tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately ½”. When you crank the engine over, if it sparks while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not spark through the spark plug wires – there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires.
4. Check voltage present on the purple wire at cranking. It MUST be at least 9½ volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter or battery.
5. Check DVA voltage on the blue wire going to the coil, it should be approximately 200 volts at cranking.
6. Disconnect the white/black points wire. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the white/black points wire against engine ground. The unit should spark each time. If it does, this usually means the CD module is good. Check the points, points plate and grounding wire for the points.
7. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension leads coming from the distributor cap and set the gap to approximately 7/16”. Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the white/black points wire against engine ground. Only the #1 spark plug wire should spark. If another spark plug wire has spark, there is a problem in the distributor cap. Repeat the test for the other cylinders.
8. Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500-RPM, MAXIMUM reading allowable is 16 volts. Over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery.
Johnson/Evinrude
Prestolite Battery Ignitions with Pickup Sensors
DUE TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE BATTERIES, NEITHER MAINTAINENCE FREE NOR LOW MAINTAINENCE BATTERIES ARE NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THIS APPLICATION!
1. Clean all battery connections and engine grounds.
2. Check wiring as follows:
Except 1967 1967
Pack Wire Color Function Pack Wire Color Function
Red or Purple 12V from keyswitch Red or Purple 12V from keyswitch
Blue Positive to ignition coil Green Positive to ignition coil
Black/White (2) To trigger sensor Blue (2) To trigger sensor
Black Engine Ground Black Engine Ground
Green/Black* Anti-reverse Spring Green/Black* Anti-reverse Spring
* Some engines had this wire on the sensor plate.


3. Connect a spark gap tester to the high tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately ½”. When you crank the engine over, if it sparks while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not spark through the spark plug wires – there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires.
4. Check voltage present on the Purple (or Red) wire at cranking. It MUST be at least 9½ volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter or battery.
5. Check DVA voltage on the Blue (or Green) wire going to the coil, it should be approximately 200 volts at cranking.
6. Disconnect the sensor wires. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the sensor wires together. The unit should fire each time. If it does, this usually means the CD module is good. Check the sensor and sensor air gap.
7. Make sure the triggering ring is the correct one for the type ignition being used. Phase II ignitions require the sensor with wide gaps between the lobes.

Phase One Rotor Phase Two Rotor


8. Reset the sensor air gap to 0.020 in. If this allows the pack to fire, leave the gap at that setting.
9. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension leads coming from the distributor cap and set the gap to approximately 7/16”. Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the sensor’s wires together. Only the #1 spark plug wire should fire. If any of the other spark plug wires have fire, there is a problem in the distributor cap. Repeat the test for the other cylinders.
10. Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500-RPM, MAXIMUM reading allowable is 16 volts. Over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery.

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1972-1978
(With screw terminal type power packs)
Two Cylinder Engines

NO SPARK ON EITHER CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Check the stator resistance. You should read approximately 500 ohms from the brown wire to engine ground.
3. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to engine ground (while connected to the pack).
4. Check the timer base’s resistance from the black/white wire to the white/black wire. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics 133-0875K1). Note: The original factory specifications was 8-14 ohms, this was changed around the mid 1970’s in response to the change in SCR’s triggering requirements.
5. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the black/white wire to the white/black (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack. If the output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet.
1. Loosen the two mounting screws on the sensor and the nut located in the epoxy on the outside of the heat shield of the timer base.
2. Slide the sensor in toward the crankshaft approximately 0.005” at a time.
3. Coat the face of the sensor with machinists bluing or equivalent.
4. Install the flywheel according to the service manual and crank the engine over.
5. Remove the flywheel and check to see if the trigging magnet struck the sensor face.
6. If the ignition fired, finger tight the nut on the outside of the heat shield and coat it with RTV.
7. If still no fire, slide the sensor in another 0.005” and repeat steps c through f.

6. Check the DVA voltage on each trigger wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the black/white wire and the white/black wire to engine ground (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the terminals on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in it’s internal wiring (A thin spot in the insulation on one wire).
7. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
Either a faulty power pack or ignition coil normally causes this. Extremely rare causes include a weak trigger magnet in the flywheel or a timer base.
Three Cylinder Engines
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
Note: If the ignition only sparks with the spark plugs out, the timer base is likely weak or the engine is not spinning fast enough. See # 6 and #8.
1. Disconnect the black yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine now sparks, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the stator resistance. Reading should be about 500 ohms from the brown wire to brown/yellow wire.
4. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire (while connected to the pack).
5. Check the timer base’s resistance from the black/white wire to the white/black wires. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases).
6. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more is needed from the black/white wire to the white/black wires (while connected to the pack) to fire the pack. If the output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet using a Sensor Gap Gauge (553-9702) or use the following procedure outlined below.
a) Loosen the two mounting screws on the sensors and the nuts located in the epoxy on the outside of the heat shield of the timer base and slide the sensors in toward the crankshaft until the sensor touches the stop boss located at the base of the sensor mounting area. Tighten the mounting screws.
b) Coat the face of the sensor with machinists bluing or equivalent and install the flywheel without the key and rotate the flywheel at least one full turn. Remove the flywheel and check to see if the trigging magnet struck the sensor face. If it did, back the sensor out approximately 0.005” and repeat steps C, D and E.
c) If the ignition has spark, finger tight the nut on the outside of the heat shield and coat it with RTV.
d) If still no spark, replace the sensor.
Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1972-1978
(Three Cylinder Engines with screw terminal type power packs, continued)
7. Check the DVA voltage on the black/white wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the black/white terminal on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in the internal wiring (A thin spot in the insulation on one wire).
8. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. Check the timer base resistance from the black/white wire to the white/black wires. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases) .
2. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more is needed from the black/white wire to the white/black wires (while connected to the pack) to fire the pack.
3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

Four Cylinder Engines
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
(Note: If the engine has spark with the spark plugs out but not with them installed, the timer base is either weak or the engine is not spinning fast enough. See # 6 and #8.)
1. Disconnect the black yellow stop wire and retest. If the engines' ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the stator resistance. You should read about 500 ohms from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire.
4. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire (while connected to the pack).
5. Check the timer base resistance from the #1 to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 to the #4 sensor wire. Reading should be 10-20 ohms on each set (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases).
6. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the #1 sensor wire to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 sensor wire to the #4 sensor wire (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack. If the output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet using a Sensor Gap Gauge (553-9702) or use the following procedure:
a) Loosen the two mounting screws on the sensors and the nuts located in the epoxy on the outside of the heat shield of the timer base.
b) Slide the sensors in toward the crankshaft until the sensor touches the stop boss located at the base of the sensor mounting area. Tighten the mounting screws.
c) Coat the face of the sensors with machinists bluing or equivalent.
d) Install the flywheel without the key and rotate the flywheel at least one full turn.
e) Remove the flywheel and check to see if the trigging magnet struck the face of the sensors. If it did, back the sensor out approximately 0.005” and repeat steps c, d and e.
f) If the ignition fired, finger tight the nuts on the outside of the heat shield and coat them with RTV.
g) If still no fire, replace the sensor.
7. Check the DVA voltage on each black/white wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the black/white terminals on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in the internal wiring (possibly a thin spot in the insulation on one wire).
8. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1972-1978
Four Cylinder Engines with screw terminal type power packs (Continued)
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE BANK:
1. Check the timer base’s resistance from the #1 to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 to the #4 sensor wire. Reading should be 10-20 ohms on each set (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases).
2. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the #1 to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 to the #4 sensor wire (while connected to the pack) is needed to have spark. If the output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet using a sensor gap gauge or use the procedure outlined in the previous page.
3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and connect a load resistor to that terminal. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

Six Cylinder Engines
Note: If the engine has spark with the spark plugs out but not with them installed, the timer base is likely weak or the engine is not spinning fast enough. See # 6 and #8.
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault, check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the stator resistance. You should read about 500 ohms from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire.
4. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire (while connected to the pack) on each bank.
5. Check the timer base’s resistance from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases).
6. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack.
7. Check the DVA voltage on the white wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the white terminal on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in the internal wiring (possibly a thin spot in the insulation on one wire).
8. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. Check the timer bases resistance from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases).
2. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack.
3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.
Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1972-1978
Four Cylinder Engines with screw terminal type power packs (Continued)
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE BANK:
1. Check the timer base’s resistance from the #1 to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 to the #4 sensor wire. Reading should be 10-20 ohms on each set (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases).
2. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the #1 to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 to the #4 sensor wire (while connected to the pack) is needed to have spark. If the output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet using a sensor gap gauge or use the procedure outlined in the previous page.
3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and connect a load resistor to that terminal. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

Six Cylinder Engines
Note: If the engine has spark with the spark plugs out but not with them installed, the timer base is likely weak or the engine is not spinning fast enough. See # 6 and #8.
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault, check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the stator resistance. You should read about 500 ohms from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire.
4. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire (while connected to the pack) on each bank.
5. Check the timer base’s resistance from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases).
6. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack.
7. Check the DVA voltage on the white wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the white terminal on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in the internal wiring (possibly a thin spot in the insulation on one wire).
8. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. Check the timer bases resistance from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases).
2. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack.
3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.


Johnson/EJohnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1978-2006
Two Stroke/Except Direct Injected Engines
Two Cylinder Engines
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 450-550 150V or more Connected
Black/White wire White/Black wire 15-42 0.6V or more Connected

Some engines use the following wiring on the trigger:
White wire Blue wire 15-42 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Green wire 15-42 0.6V or more Connected
3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.
4. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the readings are low, disconnect the orange wires from the ignition coils and reconnect them to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
Either a faulty power pack or ignition coil normally causes this problem. Rare cases include a weak trigger magnet in the flywheel or a timer base.
WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000 RPM:
1. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more, increasing with engine RPM until it reaches 300-400 volts. A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent will normally be caused by a bad stator. A drop on only one orange wire will normally be the power pack.
2. Check the stator resistance. If it reads approximately 900 ohms, replace it with the 500 ohm design.
Engines with S.L.O.W.
ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM:
1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating.
2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch.
3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.
4. Check the stator resistance. If it reads approximately 900 ohms, replace it with the 500 ohm design.

Three Cylinder Engines
(Except Quick Start Models)
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the ignition now has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 450-550 150V or more Connected
White wire Purple 38-42 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Blue wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Green wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected
4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
White wire Purple 38-42 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Blue wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Green wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected
2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1978-2006
(Three Cylinder Engines Continued…)
Models with S.L.O.W.
ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM:
1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating.
2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch.
3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.

Three Cylinder Engines
(Quick Start Models)
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the ignition now has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 450-550 150V or more Connected
Orange wire Orange/Black wire 450-550** 150V or more Connected
White wire Purple 1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Blue wire 1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Green wire 1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected
** NOTE: Some engines use a 50 or a 100 ohms power coil.
^^ This reading will vary according to the meter used. Do a comparison reading and if there is a difference
of over 10%, replace the timer base. Typically, use the Red meter lead to the White wire and the Black wire
to the other wires.
4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.

NO SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 450-550 150V or more Connected
Orange wire Orange/Black wire 450-550** 150V or more Connected
White wire Purple 1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Blue wire 1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Green wire 1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected
** NOTE: Some engines use a 50 or a 100 ohms power coil.
^^ This reading will vary according to the meter used. Do a comparison reading and if there is a difference
of over 10%, replace the timer base. Typically, use the Red meter lead to the White wire and the Black wire
to the other wires.
2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.
ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM:
1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating.
2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch.
3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.


Johnson Troubleshooting
Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1978-2006
Four Cylinder Engines (Except Quick Start Models)
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for both banks:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 450-550 150V or more Connected
White wire Blue wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Green wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected
4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
5. Check the center hub triggering magnet in the flywheel for damage and tight fit.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER OR ONE BANK:
1. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for both banks:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 450-550 150V or more Connected
White wire Blue wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Green wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected
NOTE: Also check the DVA readings to engine ground from each brown wire and compare the readings. If one wire reads low while connected to the pack, swap the connections and see if the low reading stays on the same stator wire. If it does, the stator is bad.
2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.
Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1978-2006
Four Cylinder Engines (Quick Start Models)
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 950-1100 150V or more Connected
Orange wire Orange/Black wire 93-100** 150V or more Connected
White wire Purple 35-55 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Blue wire 35-55 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Green wire 35-55 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Pink 35-55 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Purple/White 115-125 1.6V or more Connected
White wire Blue/White 115-125 1.6V or more Connected
White wire Green/White 115-125 1.6V or more Connected
White wire Pink/White 115-125 1.6V or more Connected
** NOTE: Some engines use a 50 ohm power coil.
4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
White wire Purple 35-55 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Blue wire 35-55 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Green wire 35-55 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Pink 35-55 0.6V or more Connected

2. Disconnect the white/black temperature wire and retest. If all cylinders now fire, replace the timer base.
3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.
ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM:
1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating.
2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch.
3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.

Six Cylinder Engines
Without Quick Start
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wires and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.
2. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.
3. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.
4. Check the center hub triggering magnet in the flywheel for damage and tight fit.

NO SPARK ON ONE BANK:
1. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for each bank:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 450-550 (9 amp) 150V or more Connected
Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 900-1100 (35 amp) 150V or more Connected
White wire Purple 15-42(a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Blue wire 15-42(a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Green wire 15-42(a) 0.6V or more Connected
(a) Use a comparison reading as the values for different years used different coils in the Timer-Base. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all three tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good. The exception would be if the insulation is breaking down while the engine is running.
2. Check the DVA voltage to engine ground on the White Timer-Base wire while it is connected to the pack. You should see approximately the same reading as you do between the Brown & Brown/Yellow wires for that bank. A low reading usually indicates a bad Timer-Base.
3. Disconnect the Black/Yellow stop wire from one of the packs and retest. If the bank that had no fire now has spark, the pack that was appearing to fire correctly is faulty.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack or Timer-Base.
2. Check the Timer Base resistance and DVA output as given below for each cylinder:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
White wire Purple wire 15-42(a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Blue wire 15-42(a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Green wire 15-42(a) 0.6V or more Connected
(a) Use a comparison reading as the values for different years used different coils in the Timer-Base. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all three tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good.
3. Inspect the ignition coil for burned or discolored areas indicating arcing.
4. Swap the ignition coil with one that is sparking correctly.
5. Banks with the power packs and see if the problem moves. If fit does, replace the power pack. If not, replace the Timer-Base.


Johnson Troubleshooting
Six Cylinder Engines
Quick Start Models
Note: These engines usually have a 35 Amp battery charging capacity. Due to the size and weight of the flywheel magnets, it is highly recommended that you check to make sure both the triggering and charge magnets are still secure in the flywheel before you service the engine. A loose or broken magnet can be deadly to you or your pocketbook. It is a recommended you index the flywheel and check the timing on all cylinders when servicing these engines. Also check for static firing and intermittent spark.
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow kill wires AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine's ignition now has fire, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for each bank:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 900-1100 (35 amp) 150V or more Connected
Orange Orange/Black 93-103 OEM 12-24V Connected
Orange Orange/Black 45-55 CDI 12-24V Connected
White wire Purple wire (a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Blue wire (a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Green wire (a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Purple wire 2nd connector (a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Blue wire 2nd connector (a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Green wire 2nd connector (a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Black/White wire 2nd connector 215-225 Not Applicable
(a) Use a comparison reading as different brands of meters will give different readings. The typical range is 1M to 5M ohms. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all six tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good. The exception would be if one of the scr’s inside the Timer-Base is breaking down while the engine is running. This can be found indexing the flywheel and checking the timing on all cylinders. If the readings are off, reverse the meter leads and retest to see if the readings are corrected.
4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the timer base’s resistance and output (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above).
2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 130V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack or Timer-Base.

NO SPARK ON ONE BANK:
1. Check the stator resistance and output (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above).
2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one bank, disconnect the orange wires from the ignition coil for that bank and reconnect them to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, one or all of the ignition coils are likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM :
1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating.
2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch.
3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.
4. Disconnect the VRO sensor from the engine harness and retest. If the engine performs correctly, replace the VRO or sensor.

Eight Cylinder Engines
Quick Start Models
Note: These engines usually have a 35 Amp battery charging capacity. Due to the size and weight of the flywheel magnets, it is highly recommended that you check to make sure both the triggering and charge magnets are still secure in the flywheel before you service the engine. A loose or broken magnet can be deadly to you or your pocketbook. It is a recommended you index the flywheel and check the timing on all cylinders when servicing these engines. Also check for static firing and intermittent spark.
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow kill wires AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine's ignition now has fire, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for each bank:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 900-1100 (35 amp) 150V or more Connected
Orange Orange/Black 93-103 OEM 12-24V Connected
Orange Orange/Black 40-55 CDI 12-24V Connected
White wire Purple wire (a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Blue wire (a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Green wire (a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Pink wire (a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Purple wire 2nd connector (a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Blue wire 2nd connector (a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Green wire 2nd connector (a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Pink wire 2nd connector (a) 0.6V or more Connected
White wire Black/White wire 2nd connector 215-225 Not Applicable
(a) Use a comparison reading as different brands of meters will give different readings. The typical range is 1M to 5M ohms. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all six tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good. The exception would be if one of the scr’s inside the Timer-Base is breaking down while the engine is running. This can be found indexing the flywheel and checking the timing on all cylinders. If the readings are off, reverse the meter leads and retest to see if the readings are corrected.
4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the timer base’s resistance and output (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above).
2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 130V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack or Timer-Base.

NO SPARK ON ONE BANK:
1. Check the stator resistance and output (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above).
2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one bank, disconnect the orange wires from the ignition coil for that bank and reconnect them to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, one or all of the ignition coils are likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM :
1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating.
2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch.
3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.
4. Disconnect the VRO sensor from the engine harness and retest. If the engine performs correctly, replace the VRO or sensor.


Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude 60° 6 Cylinder Ignition (OIS 2000)
Carbureted 1991-2006 Model Years
Due to the differences in this ignition system, troubleshooting can be somewhat difficult if you are not familiar with the design. The other Johnson/Evinrude QuickStart ignitions use stator charge coils and a power coil to provide high voltage and power for the QuickStart and rev limiter circuits. They require a timer base for triggering and use separate magnets for the high voltage and triggering the timer base. The OIS 2000 Optical system uses the stator charge coils to provide high voltage for the firing of the ignition coils and a power coil to provide power for the electronics, both inside the power pack and inside the sensor. The other QuickStart models will run the engine without the power coil being connected (of course this will burn out the control circuits inside the power pack). The OIS 2000 ignition has to have the power coil supplying power in order to operate the QuickStart, S.L.O.W., rev limiter, and fire the coils beyond cranking speed. The optical sensor located on the top is fed power from the power pack and sends crankshaft position, cylinder location and direction of rotation back to the power pack. The pack is smart enough to know not to fire if the engine is not turning in the right direction. S.L.O.W. functions reduce the engine RPM to approximately 2500 when the engine over-heats or the no oil warning is activated. QuickStart (a 10° timing advance) activates as long as the engine RPM is below 1100, the engine temperature is below 105° F and the Yellow/Red wire from the starter solenoid is not feeding 12V DC to the power pack all of the time. QuickStart will also activate for 5-10 seconds each time the engine is started regardless of engine temperature. CDI Electronics (blue case with red sleeve) power packs have a built-in feature to compensate for a shorted cold sensor, allowing the engine to exit QuickStart after 5 minutes of running time regardless of the condition of the cold sensor. The CDI power pack also will not fire if the wrong encoder wheel (4 cylinder) is installed by mistake. At cranking speed the voltage from the stator may not be enough to operate the circuits inside the power pack. Therefore, battery voltage supplied via the yellow/red striped start wire. The extra voltage is needed in order for the optical sensor to operate correctly as low voltage from the battery and/or stator can cause intermittent or no fire at all. There are a couple of critical items you should be aware of on these engines. First, the spark plug wires have to be the Gray inductive resistor wires – these are NOT automotive wires. Secondly, the spark plugs should be the factory recommended QL78YC. Use of other spark plugs or wires can cause problems inside the power pack from RFI and MFI noise. CDI Electronics has the spark plug wires available as a set, P/N: 931-4921.
A breakthrough at CDI Electronics has allowed the use of microprocessor digital control circuits to handle the timing, QuickStart, S.L.O.W., rev limiter and data logging inside the power pack. This allows the timing to be set using a timing light, remote starter, spark gap tester, piston stop tool and a jumper wire. With these new digital power packs, you disconnect the port temperature switch/sensor leads and use a jumper wire to short the tan temperature sensor wire to engine ground. Once you have verified the timing pointer using a piston stop tool (Or a dial indicator), connect all spark plug wires to a spark gap tester, connect a remote starter to the engine and a timing light to # 1 spark plug wire. When you crank the engine over with the remote starter and check the timing, you should see the timing is set to approximately 4°-6° ATDC (After Top Dead Center). By advancing the throttle all the way and rechecking the timing for WOT (Wide Open Throttle), you should see approximately 19° - 20° BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) Without this timing feature built into the power pack, you will need the 511-4017 Timing Tool or the OEM version to set the timing for idle and WOT. Additional advantages offered by the digital circuitry include the ability to compensate for a bad temperature switch, a smoother rev limit, customized rev limiters and pecial timing curves.
s
Additional items to be aware of:
1. Early 150 and 175 HP engines did not have the tension washer on top of the sensor encoder wheel. This washer is required to keep the encoder locked in place. If it is missing, be sure to install the correct washer.
2. 1991 and 1992 engines did not have a shift interrupter switch. This resulted in hard shifting and required a conversion to resolve this problem.
3. The shift interrupter switch killed the fire on the starboard bank of cylinders from 1993 thru mid 1990’s. By 1998, a change was made for the shift interrupter switch to kill the fire on the Port bank.
4. 1991 through late 1990’s engines occasionally developed a crack in the water jacket allowing water into the intake at high speed. This typically resulted in # 1 cylinder ingesting water. You can usually see signs of this because the head looks like it has been steam cleaned inside the combustion chamber.
5. 1991 and 1992 engines came out with a Black sleeved power pack (P/N 584122) and stator (P/N 584109) and used a P/N 584265 sensor. In 1993 the power packs were changed to a Gray sleeve (Production) power pack (P/N 584910). The stator was changed to a Gray sleeve (P/N 584981) and the sensor was changed to P/N 584914. Engines with ignition problems had a service replacement power pack with a blue sleeve and a replacement sensor installed as a set. The Blue sleeved power pack was only available as a service replacement. The Gray sleeved stator could be used with all of the power packs, but the Black sleeved stator was to be used only with a Black sleeved power pack. The sensor P/N changed to 586343 in the late 1990’s.

Troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude 60° 6 Cylinder Ignition (OIS 2000) 1991-2006 Model Years (Continued)
6. Some engines do not have the RFI/MFI noise shield between the ignition coils and the power pack. If it is missing, replace it.
7. The Gray inductive spark plug wires replaced the Black copper spark plug wires that were used on the early 1990’s engines.
8. Originally the spark plugs were the QL82YC, but that recommendation was changed to the QL78YC for improved performance.

NO FIRE AT ALL:
1. Check the kill lanyard and key-switch position.
2. Verify the engine rotation (The engine needs to be turning in a clockwise direction).
3. Check the power pack and ignition coil ground wires for corrosion and tightness.
4. Connect a spark gap tester to all cylinders.
5. Disconnect the boat side harness and connect a remote starter unit. Check for spark. If the engine has spark, check the boat side harness’s Black/Yellow wire for shorts to ground.
6. Disconnect the 5-pin connector on the port side of the power pack and see if the spark returns. If it does, use the CDI meter set to Ohms and see if the Black/Yellow wires are shorted to engine ground.
7. Check the battery voltage on the Yellow/Red striped wire while cranking the engine. If below 11 volts, charge the battery or check all battery cables.
8. Remove the sensor wheel and check for damage, especially where the top slots are located. Sometimes the wheels will break out where the windows overlap.

(This area is the most common breakout location)

9. Check the sensor eyes for dirt, grease, etc. If you have to clean it, use denatured alcohol and a Q-tip. Do not use any other cleaning agent because damage to the optical lens will occur.
10. Disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the regulator/rectifier.
11. Using the Piercing Probes, check the resistance, then check the DVA voltage on the 6 pin stator connector while connected as follows: Red Lead Black Lead Resistance DVA Reading
Orange Orange/Black 50-60 ohms 12 V or more
Brown Brown/Yellow 450-600 ohms 150V or more
Brown/White Brown/Black 450-600 ohms 150V or more
Note: Low readings on all checks indicate a possible problem with the flywheel magnets that require checking.
Service note: It is recommended that liquid neoprene be applied to the areas where the piercing probes were used.
12. If all the tests so far show good readings, check the DVA output from the power pack on the primary coil wires as follows:
Red Lead Black Lead DVA Reading
Orange/Blue Engine Ground 130 V or more
Orange Engine Ground 130 V or more
Orange/Green Engine Ground 130 V or more
Note: If the DVA values are below these specifications, the power pack or sensor is likely bad.
13. Check the DVA voltage on the Black/Orange and Orange/Red sensors leads as follows:
Red Lead Black Lead DVA Reading
Orange/Red Engine Ground 12 V or more
Black/Orange Engine Ground 12 V or more
WARNING!! The Black/Orange wire should NEVER be shorted to engine ground as this will damage the sensor.

Troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude 60° 6 Cylinder Ignition (OIS 2000)
1991-2006 Model Years (Continued)
14. If an oscilloscope is available, check the white/blue (crank position signal) and white/green (cylinder position signal) sensor wires while connected to the sensor. With the engine cranking over, you should see a square toothed pattern on both wires. The white/blue wire should show 1 pulse per revolution and the white/green should show 7 pulses per revolution of the engine.

a. Led Power – Black/Orange
b. Power – Orange Red
c. Ground – Black
d. Sync – White/Blue Stripe
e. Cyl – White/Green

No Spark on One Bank of Cylinders:
1. Using the Piercing Probes and DVA adapter, check the resistance and DVA voltage for the bank without spark on the 6 pin stator connector while connected as follows:
Red Lead Black Lead Ohms Resistance DVA Bank/Cyl
Brown Brown/Yellow 450-600 ohms 150V + Stbd (1,3,5)
Brown/White Brown/Black 450-600 ohms 150V + Port (2,4,6)
NOTE: If the power pack has no spark on one bank and the readings are good, replace the power pack.
2. Disconnect the 5-pin connector on the port side of the power pack and see if the spark returns. If it does, use the CDI meter set to Ohms and see if the Black/Yellow or Black/Orange wire is shorted to engine ground. Check to see if the Shift Interrupter switch is located in the circuit where there is no spark.


Troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude 60° 6 Cylinder Ignition (OIS 2000) 1991-2006 Model Years (Continued)
High Speed Miss:
1. If the engine runs fine until you get above 4900 RPM and then starts missing, check the Orange to Orange/Black power coil wires with an oscilloscope (If available) or replace the pack. A breakdown inside the pack could cause RFI noise to activate the rev limiter for no apparent reason.
2. Using the Piercing Probes and DVA adapter, check the DVA voltage at the RPM where the problem is occurring while connected as follows:
Red Lead Black Lead DVA Bank/Cylinder
Brown Brown/Yellow 150V + Starboard (1,3,5)
Brown/White Brown/Black 150V + Port (2,4,6)
NOTE: The readings should rapidly increase as the engine RPM increases and stabilize below 400 volts (voltage exceeding 400 V DVA indicates a bad pack). A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent usually indicates a bad stator charge coil.
3. Connect an inductive tachometer to the spark plug wires one at a time and compare the readings. If most of the cylinders show the same reading and one or two show different readings, check the primary wires with the inductive pickup to see if the readings are the same coming out of the power pack. A difference in readings between the primary and secondary coil wires usually indicate bad ignition wires. No difference indicates a bad power pack.

Will Not Rev Above Idle Speed or Only Has Spark as Long as the Starter Solenoid is Activated:
Using the Piercing Probes and DVA adapter, check the DVA voltage while connected as follows:
Red Lead Black Lead DVA
Orange Orange/Black 11-24V
NOTE: The readings should rapidly increase as the engine RPM increases and stabilize below 24 volts (voltage exceeding 24 V DVA indicates a bad pack). A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent usually indicates a bad stator winding. A sharp drop in voltage when you let off of the starter solenoid indicates a bad power coil on the stator.
Engine Will Not Rev Above 2500 RPM and Shakes Hard (SLOW Activated):
1. Verify the engine is not actually over-heating by using a digital pyrometer.
2. Check the routing of the tan temperature wires, an example of a bad location is shown below. The tan wires have to be located as far away as possible from the spark plug wires.

(Unacceptable routing for the temp wire.)

3. Disconnect the temperature sensors and see if the engine performs normally. If it does, check both temperature sensors and replace the defective one.
4. If there is not any indication of a problem at this point, replace the power pack.
Engine stays in QuickStart All of the Time:
Check the Yellow/Red wire for 12 volts while the engine is running. You should only see voltage on this wire while the starter solenoid is engaged.


Troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude 60° 4 Cylinder Ignition (OIS 2000)
Carbureted 1995-2006 Model Years
Due to the differences in this ignition system, troubleshooting can be somewhat difficult if you are not familiar with the design. The other Johnson/Evinrude QuickStart ignitions use stator charge coils and a power coil to provide high voltage and power for the QuickStart and rev limiter circuits. They require a timer base for triggering and use separate magnets for the high voltage and triggering the timer base. The OIS 2000 Optical system uses the stator charge coil to provide high voltage for the firing of the ignition coils and a power coil to provide power for the electronics, both inside the power pack and inside the sensor. The other QuickStart models will run the engine without the power coil being connected (of course this will burn out the control circuits inside the power pack). The OIS 2000 ignition has to have the power coil supplying power in order to operate the QuickStart, S.L.O.W., rev limiter, and fire the coils beyond cranking speed. The optical sensor located on the top is fed power from the power pack and sends crankshaft position, cylinder location and direction of rotation back to the power pack. The pack is smart enough to know not to fire if the engine is not turning in the right direction. S.L.O.W. functions reduce the engine RPM to approximately 2500 when the engine over-heats or the no oil warning is activated. QuickStart (a 10° timing advance) activates as long as the engine RPM is below 1100, the engine temperature is below 105° F and the Yellow/Red wire from the starter solenoid is not feeding 12V DC to the power pack all of the time. QuickStart will also activate for 5-10 seconds each time the engine is started regardless of engine temperature. CDI Electronics (blue case with red sleeve) power packs have a built-in feature to compensate for a shorted cold sensor, allowing the engine to come out of QuickStart after 5 minutes of running time regardless of the condition of the cold sensor. The CDI power pack will not fire if the wrong encoder wheel (6 cylinder) is installed by mistake.
At cranking speed the voltage from the stator may not be enough to operate the circuits inside the power pack, therefore there is battery voltage supplied from the starter solenoid via the yellow/red striped wire. The extra voltage is needed in order for the optical sensor to operate correctly as low voltage from the battery and/or stator can cause intermittent or no fire at all. There are a couple of critical items you should be aware of on these engines. First, the spark plug wires have to be the Gray inductive resistor wires – these are NOT automotive wires. Secondly, the spark plugs have to be the factory recommended QL78YC. Use of other spark plugs or wires can cause problems inside the power pack from RFI and MFI noise. CDI Electronics has the spark plug wires available as a set, P/N: 931-4921.
A breakthrough at CDI Electronics has allowed the use of microprocessor digital control circuits to handle the timing, QuickStart, S.L.O.W., rev limiter and data logging inside the power pack. This allows the timing to be set using a timing light, remote starter, spark gap tester, piston stop tool and a jumper wire. With these new digital power packs, you disconnect the port temperature switch/sensor leads and use a jumper wire to short the tan temperature sensor wire to engine ground. Once you have verified the timing pointer using a piston stop tool (Or a dial indicator), connect all spark plug wires to a spark gap tester, connect a remote starter to the engine and a timing light to # 1 spark plug wire. When you crank the engine over with the remote starter and check the timing, you should see the timing is set to approximately 4°-6° ATDC (After Top Dead Center). By advancing the throttle all the way and rechecking the timing for WOT (Wide Open Throttle), you should see approximately 19° - 21° BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) Without this timing feature built into the power pack, you would not be able to easily set the timing for idle or WOT without a optical diagnostic tool. Additional advantages offered by the digital circuitry include the ability to compensate for a bad temperature switch, a smoother rev limit, customized rev limiters and pecial timing curves.
s
Additional items to be aware of:
1. Some engines do not have the RFI/MFI noise shield between the ignition coils and the power pack. If it is missing, replace it.
2. Originally the spark plugs were the QL82YC, but that recommendation was changed to the QL78YC for improved performance.
NO FIRE AT ALL:
1. Check the kill lanyard and key-switch position.
2. Verify the engine rotation (The engine needs to be turning in a clockwise direction).
3. Check the power pack and ignition coil ground wires for corrosion and tightness.
4. Connect a spark gap tester to all cylinders.
5. Disconnect the boat side harness and connect a remote starter unit. Check for spark. If the engine has spark, check the boat side harness’s Black/Yellow wire for shorts to ground.
6. Disconnect the 4-pin connector on the port side of the power pack and see if the spark returns. If it does, use the CDI meter set to Ohms and see if the Black/Yellow wires are shorted to engine ground.
7. Check the battery voltage on the Yellow/Red striped wire while cranking the engine. If below 11 volts, charge the battery or check all battery cables.
8. Remove the sensor wheel and check for damage, especially where the top slots are located. Sometimes the wheels will break out where the windows overlap.

(This area is the most common breakout location)

9. Check the sensor eyes for dirt, grease, etc. If you have to clean it, use denatured alcohol and a Q-tip. Do not use any other cleaning agent because damage to the optical lens will occur.
10. Disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the regulator/rectifier.
11. Using the Piercing Probes, check the resistance, then check the DVA voltage on the 6 pin stator connector while connected as follows: Red Lead Black Lead Resistance DVA Reading
Orange Orange/Black 50-60 ohms 12 V or more
Brown Brown/Yellow 450-600 ohms 150V or more
Note: Low readings on all checks indicate a possible problem with the flywheel magnets that require checking.
Service note: It is recommended that liquid neoprene be applied to the areas where the piercing probes were used.
12. If all the tests so far show good readings, check the DVA output from the power pack on the primary coil wires as follows:
Red Lead Black Lead DVA Reading
Orange/Blue Engine Ground 130 V or more
Orange/Green Engine Ground 130 V or more
Note: If the DVA values are below these specifications, the power pack or sensor is likely bad.
13. Check the DVA voltage on the Black/Orange and Orange/Red sensors leads as follows:
Red Lead Black Lead DVA Reading
Orange/Red Engine Ground 12 V or more
Black/Orange Engine Ground 12 V or more
WARNING!! The Black/Orange wire should NEVER be shorted to engine ground as this will damage the sensor.
14. If an oscilloscope is available, check the white/blue (crank position signal) and white/green (cylinder position signal) sensor wires while connected to the sensor. With the engine cranking over, you should see a square toothed pattern on both wires. The white/blue wire should show 1 pulse per revolution and the white/green should show 7 pulses per revolution of the engine.

f. Led Power – Black/Orange
g. Power – Orange Red
h. Ground – Black
i. Sync – White/Blue Stripe
j. Cyl – White/Green

No Spark on One Bank of Cylinders:
1. If the power pack has no spark on one bank and the readings are good, replace the power pack.
2. Disconnect the 4-pin connector on the port side of the power pack and see if the spark returns. If it does, use the CDI meter set to Ohms and see if the Black/Yellow wire is shorted to engine ground.
3. Check to see if the Shift Interrupter switch is shorted.


Port 4 Pin Connector Starboard 4 Pin Connector
a) Black/Yellow a) Brown
b) Tan b) Orange/Black
c) White/Black c) Orange
d) Yellow/Red d) Brown/Yellow

High Speed Miss:
1. If the engine runs fine until you get above 4900 RPM and then starts missing, check the Orange to Orange/Black power coil wires with an oscilloscope (If available) or replace the pack. A breakdown inside the pack could cause RFI noise to activate the rev limiter for no apparent reason.
2. Using the Piercing Probes and DVA adapter, check the DVA voltage at the RPM where the problem is occurring while connected as follows:
Red Lead Black Lead DVA
Brown Brown/Yellow 150V +
NOTE: The readings should rapidly increase as the engine RPM increases and stabilize below 400 volts (voltage exceeding 400 V DVA indicates a bad pack). A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent usually indicates a bad stator charge coil.
3. Connect an inductive tachometer to the spark plug wires one at a time and compare the readings. If most of the cylinders show the same reading and one or two show different readings, check the primary wires with the inductive pickup to see if the readings are the same coming out of the power pack. A difference in readings between the primary and secondary coil wires usually indicate a bad coil or bad ignition wires. No difference indicates a bad power pack.
Will Not Rev Above Idle Speed or Only Has Spark as Long as the Starter Solenoid is Activated:
Using the Piercing Probes and DVA adapter, check the DVA voltage while connected as follows:
Red Lead Black Lead DVA
Orange Orange/Black 11-24V
NOTE: The readings should rapidly increase as the engine RPM increases and stabilize below 24 volts (voltage exceeding 24 V DVA indicates a bad pack). A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent usually indicates a bad stator winding. A sharp drop in voltage when you let off of the starter solenoid indicates a bad power coil on the stator.
Engine Will Not Rev Above 2500 RPM and Shakes Hard (SLOW Activated):
1. Verify the engine is not actually over-heating by using a digital pyrometer.
2. Check the routing of the tan temperature wires, an example of a bad location is shown below. The tan wires have to be located as far away as possible from the spark plug wires.

(Unacceptable routing for the temp wire.)

3. Verify the engine is not overheating and disconnect the Tan temperature sensor wire. If the engine performs normally, check both temperature sensors and replace the defective one.
4. If there is not any indication of a problem at this point, replace the power pack.
Engine stays in QuickStart All of the Time:
Check the Yellow/Red wire for 12 volts while the engine is running. You should only see voltage on this wire while the starter solenoid is engaged.
















Mercury
Battery CD Ignitions with Points
1. SERVICE NOTE: Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500-RPM, MAXIMUM reading allowable is 16 volts. Over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery. Maintenance free batteries are NOT recommended for this application. A CD Tester (CDI Electronics P/N: 511-9701) can be used to test the CD module, distributor cap, rotor button and spark plug wires on the engine.


Engine Wiring Connection for Testing Ignition Module



2. Clean all battery connections and engine grounds.
3. Disconnect the mercury tilt switch and retest. If the ignition works properly, replace the mercury switch.
4. Connect a spark gap tester to the spark plug wires and check for fire on all cylinders. If some cylinders fire and not others, the problem is likely in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires.
5. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately 7/16”. When you crank the engine over, if it fires while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not fire through the spark plug wires – there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires.
6. Check voltage present on the white and red terminals while at cranking. It MUST be at least 9½ volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter battery cables or battery.
7. Check DVA voltage on the green wire going to the coil, it should be over 100 volts at cranking.
8. Disconnect the brown points wires. Turn the ignition switch on and strike one of the brown points wire against engine ground. The unit should fire each time. If the coil does fire, this means the CD module is usually good and the points, points plate and grounding wire for the points plate should be checked.
9. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension leads coming from the distributor cap and set the gap to approximately 7/16”. Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the brown points wire against engine ground (Or use a CD Tester). Only the #1 spark plug wire should fire. If any other spark plug wire now has fire, there is a problem in the distributor cap. Repeat the test for the other cylinders.
10. Perform a voltage drop test after the engine is repaired to see if there is a problem with the voltage going to the CD module. At cranking and while the engine is running, use a DC voltmeter and put the black meter lead on the battery POS (+) post and the red meter lead on the positive battery cable at the starter solenoid. Keep the black lead on the battery post and shift the red meter lead to the positive post of the rectifier, then to the red and white terminals on the switch box. If you find a reading above 0.6V, there is a problem at the point where the voltage jumped up. For example, if the meter reads 0.4V until you get to the white terminal and then jumps to 2.3V on the white terminal –this indicates a problem in the key switch, or harness. Repeat the test for the negative battery post by putting the black meter lead on the battery NEG (-) post and the red meter lead on the negative battery cable terminal, then shifting to the engine block, rectifier base and case ground of the CD module.

Mercury Battery CD Ignitions without Points
Three Cylinder Engines with 332-4796/393-4797 Battery Type Ignitions
Note: A CD Tester by CDI Electronics (511-9701) or Merc-o-Tronics can be used to test the CD module, distributor cap, rotor button and spark plug wires on the engine while the Trigger Tester by CDI can be used to test the distributor trigger.
SERVICE NOTE: Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500 RPM, MAXIMUM reading allowable is 16 volts and minimum is 12V. Running below 12V or over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery. Maintenance free batteries are NOT recommended for this application.
Engine Wiring Connection for Testing Ignition Module

General:
1. Clean all battery connections and engine grounds.
2. Disconnect the mercury tilt switch and retest. If the ignition works properly, replace the mercury switch.
3. Connect a spark gap tester to the spark plug wires and check for fire on all cylinders. If some cylinders fire and not others, the problem is likely in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires.
4. Perform a voltage drop test after the engine is repaired to see if there is a problem with the voltage going to the CD module. At cranking and while the engine is running, use a DC voltmeter and put the black meter lead on the battery POS (+) post and the red meter lead on the positive battery cable at the starter solenoid. Keep the black lead on the battery post and shift the red meter lead to the positive post of the rectifier, then to the red and white terminals on the switch box. If you find a reading above 0.6V, there is a problem at the point where the voltage jumped up. For example, if the meter reads 0.4V until you get to the white terminal and then jumps to 2.3V on the white terminal –this indicates a problem in the key switch, or harness. Repeat the test for the negative battery post by putting the black meter lead on the battery NEG (-) post and the red meter lead on the negative battery cable terminal, then shifting to the engine block, rectifier base and case ground of the CD module.

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately 7/16”. When you crank the engine over, if it fires while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not fire through the spark plug wires – there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires.
2. Check the DC voltage present on the white and red terminals while at cranking. It MUST be at least 9½ volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter battery cables or battery.
3. Check the DC voltage on the white/black trigger terminal while cranking, there must be at least 9V available with the trigger wire connected.
4. Check DVA voltage between the blue and black trigger wires (they must be connected to the switch box). You should read at least 3V. A low reading indicates a bad trigger.
5. Check DVA voltage on the green wire going to the coil, it should be over 100 volts at cranking.
ONLY HAS SPARK AS LONG AS THE STARTER IS ENGAGED:
This symptom usually indicates a bad trigger or low voltage.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension leads coming from the distributor cap and set the gap to approximately 7/16”. Use of a CD Tester is highly recommended.
2. Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Disconnect the trigger wires and connect a jumper wire from the white/black trigger terminal to the black trigger terminal on the switch box.
3. Connect another jumper wire to the blue trigger terminal turn the ignition switch on. Strike the jumper wire from the blue terminal against engine ground – (DO NOT HOLD THE JUMPER AGAINST ENGINE GROUND). Only the #1 spark plug wire should fire. If any other spark plug wire now has fire, there is a problem in the distributor cap.
4. Repeat the test for the other cylinders.
Two Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils
GENER
HIGH SPEED MISS: Check the battery voltage on the red and white terminals of the switch box at high speed, the voltage should be between 12.5V and 16V DC. A reading outside this range will damage the CD module. If the readings are abnormal, perform the voltage drop test described above.
Four and Six Cylinder Engines with 332-2986/393-3736 Battery Type Ignitions
Note: A CD Tester like the one by CDI Electronics or Merc-o-Tronics can be used to test the CD module, distributor cap, rotor button and spark plug wires on the engine while the Trigger Tester by CDI can be used to test the distributor trigger.
SERVICE NOTE: Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500 RPM, MAXIMUM reading allowable is 16 volts and minimum is 12V. Running below 12V or over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery. Maintenance free batteries are NOT recommended for this application.
Engine Wiring Connection for Testing Ignition Module


General:
1. Clean all battery connections and engine grounds.
2. Disconnect the mercury tilt switch and retest. If the ignition works properly, replace the mercury switch.
3. Connect a spark gap tester to the spark plug wires and check for fire on all cylinders. If some cylinders fire and not others, the problem is likely in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires.
4. Perform a voltage drop test after the engine is repaired to see if there is a problem with the voltage going to the CD module. At cranking and while the engine is running, use a DC voltmeter and put the black meter lead on the battery POS (+) post and the red meter lead on the positive battery cable at the starter solenoid. Keep the black lead on the battery post and shift the red meter lead to the positive post of the rectifier, then to the red and white terminals on the switch box. If you find a reading above 0.6V, there is a problem at the point where the voltage jumped up. For example, if the meter reads 0.4V until you get to the white terminal and then jumps to 2.3V on the white terminal –this indicates a problem in the key switch, or harness. Repeat the test for the negative battery post by putting the black meter lead on the battery NEG (-) post and the red meter lead on the negative battery cable terminal, then shifting to the engine block, rectifier base and case ground of the CD module.

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately 7/16”. When you crank the engine over, if it fires while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not fire through the spark plug wires – there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires.
2. Check the DC voltage present on the white and red terminals while at cranking. It MUST be at least 9½ volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter battery cables or battery.
3. Check the DC voltage on the brown trigger terminal while cranking, there must be at least 9V available with the trigger wire connected.
4. Check DVA voltage between the white and black trigger wires (they must be connected to the switch box). You should read at least 3V. A low reading indicates a bad trigger.
5. Check DVA voltage on the green wire going to the coil, it should be over 100 volts at cranking.

ONLY HAS SPARK AS LONG AS THE STARTER IS ENGAGED:
This symptom usually indicates a bad trigger or low voltage.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension leads coming from the distributor cap and set the gap to approximately 7/16”. (Use of a CD Tester is recommended).
2. Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Disconnect the trigger wires and connect a jumper wire from the brown trigger terminal to the white trigger terminal.
3. Connect another jumper wire to the black trigger terminal turn the ignition switch on. Strike the jumper wire from the black terminal against engine ground – (DO NO HOLD THE JUMPER AGAINST ENGINE GROUND). Only the #1 spark plug wire should fire. If any other spark plug wire has fire, there is a problem in the distributor cap.
4. Repeat the test for the other cylinders.

HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Check the battery voltage on the red and white terminals of the switch box at high speed, the voltage should be between 12.5V and 16V DC. A reading outside this range will damage the CD module. If the readings are abnormal, perform the voltage drop test described above.
2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a high miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.

Four Cylinder Engines
1970-1971 Engines with 337-4406/337-4411 Ignitions
WARNING: Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500 RPM, MAXIMUM allowable reading is 16 volts and minimum is 12V. Running below 12V or over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery. Maintenance free batteries are NOT recommended for this application.
SERVICE NOTE: Due to problems associated with this system, it is recommended that the system be converted over to a 332-2986/393-3736 type system. (CDI Electronics offers a conversion kit, P/N – 114-2986K1)
Engine Wiring Connection for Testing Ignition 337-4411 Module


General:
1. Clean all battery connections and engine grounds.
2. Disconnect the mercury tilt switch and retest. If the ignition works properly, replace the mercury switch.
3. Connect a spark gap tester to the spark plug wires and check for fire on all cylinders. If some cylinders fire and not others, the problem is likely in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires.
4. Perform a voltage drop test after the engine is repaired to see if there is a problem with the voltage going to the CD module. At cranking and while the engine is running, use a DC voltmeter and put the black meter lead on the battery POS (+) post and the red meter lead on the positive battery cable at the starter solenoid. Keep the black lead on the battery post and shift the red meter lead to the positive post of the rectifier, then to the red and white terminals on the switch box. If you find a reading above 0.6V, there is a problem at the point where the voltage jumped up. For instance, if the meter reads 0.4V until you get to the white terminal and then jumps to 2.3V on the white terminal –this indicates a problem in the key switch, or harness. Repeat the test for the negative battery post by putting the black meter lead on the battery NEG (-) post and the red meter lead on the negative battery cable terminal, then shifting to the engine block, rectifier base and case ground of the CD module.

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. If a mercury switch is connected to the switch box, disconnect it and retest. If you now have spark, replace the mercury switch.
2. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately 7/16”. When you crank the engine over, if it fires while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not fire through the spark plug wires – there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires.
3. Check the DC voltage present on the white trigger wire and the red terminal of the switch box while cranking. It MUST be at least 9½ volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter, battery cables or battery.
4. Check DVA voltage between the blue terminal and engine ground while cranking (The trigger wire must be connected to the switch box). You should read at least 9V.
5. Disconnect the wire from the blue terminal of the switch box and connect a jumper wire to the terminal. Strike the other end of the jumper wire against engine ground. The CD module should fire each time. Failure to fire usually indicates a bad CD module.
6. Check DVA voltage on the green wire going to the coil, it should be over 100 volts at cranking.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Connect a spark gap tester to the spark plug wires coming from the distributor cap and set the air gap to approximately 7/16”.
2. Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Disconnect the wire from the blue terminal of the switch box and connect a jumper wire to the terminal. Strike the other end of the jumper wire against engine ground. Only the #1 spark plug wire should fire. If any other spark plug wire has fire, there is a problem in the distributor cap.
3. Repeat the test for the other cylinders.

NOTICE: The 4 cylinder engines using the 332-3213 ignition module and belt driven ignition driver DO NOT USE BATTERY VOLTAGE. Connecting 12V to the Red terminal will destroy the module.



AL:
1. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT.
2. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
3. Check for range from 680 – 800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR).
4.
ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:
Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the white stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops all spark from the pack, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad. The ignition switch could also be bad.
NO SPARK UNLESS THE SPARK PLUGS ARE OUT:
Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.
HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Using the CDI meter
Mercury
Alternator Driven Ignitions
Two Cylinder Engines 1971-1975 (With Phase-Maker Ignition)
NO SPARK ON ONE OR BOTH CYLINDERS:
1. Disconnect the orange stop and retest. If the engine now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault.
2. Check the Stator resistance and DVA output as given below:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Red wire Yellow wire 320-550 Not Available
Blue wire Yellow wire 3600-5500 Not Available
Green wire Engine Ground -- 180V or more Connected
2. Disconnect the points wires (Brown and White) one at a time and retest. If the spark comes back on the one still connected when you disconnect one of them, the points or points wire is defective for the disconnected cylinder.
3. Disconnect the Green wires one at a time and retest If the spark comes back on one cylinder, the ignition coil not connected is defective. Remember that the coils must not be the Black or Blue coils (these coils are not isolated ground).
4. Test the 336-4516 module as follows:

2.
Mercury
Two Cylinder Engines 1974-1985 (With the 336-3962 or 336-3996 Stator/Switch Box)
WARNING!! DO NOT START AND RUN THIS ENGINE ON A FLUSHING ATTACHMENT OR EAR MUFFS AND ACTIVATE THE STOP CIRCUIT. This system operates with the orange stop wire normally shorted to ground. When you activate the stop circuit, you open the orange’s connection to ground. The resulting backlash into the stator may damage the electronics. You must use the choke to stop the engine. In the water, the back pressure from the exhaust will slow the engine quickly enough to prevent damage to the stator.
Note: The insulator blocks used with this stator are very important. You are strongly advised to closely inspect the points wires and insulator blocks for cracking or arcing. This system operates at a much higher voltage than the normal systems and what would be acceptable on other systems will cause arcing problems.
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the Orange stop wire and retest. If the ignition system now has spark, the stop circuit has a problem.
2. Use a jumper wire and short the orange (Salmon) wire to ground. If the engine now has spark, replace the stop switch.
3. Disconnect the points wires from the ignition coils and connect a jumper wire to the negative side of the coils. Crank the engine and carefully tap the jumper to engine ground, if the coil sparks – check the points and points wires. If it fails to spark, inspect the ignition coil. You should have either a red, orange or green coil with a bare braided ground wire coming out of the backside of the coil. This bare braided ground wire MUST be connected to a clean engine ground. You cannot use a black or blue ignition coil.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the points wires from the ignition coils and swap them for a cranking test. Crank the engine over and see if the spark moves to a different coil. If it does, you have a problem in the points, points wire or insulator block for the cylinder not sparking.
2. If the spark remains on the same coil when you swap the points wires and it is the coil where the green wire is coming from the stator, remove the green jumper wire. Swap the green wire coming from the stator from one coil to the other coil. If the spark moves to the other coil, replace the green jumper wire connecting the two coils.
3. Check the ignition coil. You should have approximately 1,000 (1 K ohm) of resistance from the spark plug wire to engine ground.
4. Inspect the ignition coils. You should have either a red, orange or green coil with a bare braided ground wire coming out of the backside of the coil. This bare braided ground wire MUST be connected to a clean engine ground. You cannot use a black or blue ignition coil.


M
Brown wire from Points

Green Jumper Wire (High Voltage)

White wire from points
Engine ground

Orange or Salmon Wire (Stop Wire)

Must be grounded thru the stop switch to run on two cylinder engine (opens the ground path to stop engine).

Connect to engine ground for a one cylinder engine Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them.
4. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
5. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in
Mercury
Two Cylinder Engines 1974-1985 (With the 339-5287 or 339-6222 Switch Box)
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the Orange stop wire and retest. If the ignition system now has spark, the stop circuit has a problem.
2. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output:
WIRE Read To RESISTANCE DVA
Orange Engine GND 1600-1800 (800-900 per coil) 180V or more
Brown White* 140-160 0.5V or more
Note: Some units had used a trigger that has 2 Brown wires instead of a Brown and White.
3. Inspect the ignition coils. You should have either a red, orange or green coil with a bare braided ground wire coming out of the backside of the coil. This bare braided ground wire MUST be connected to a clean engine ground. You cannot use a black or blue ignition coil.
4. Check the ignition coils as follows: Check resistance from + to – terminal reading should be 0.2-1.0 ohms and 800-1100 ohms from the high tension lead to engine ground. There should be no connection from the – terminal to engine ground.
5. Check the flywheel for broken magnets.

ENGINE HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT RUN:
1. Index the flywheel and check the timing. If it is out by 180 degrees, swap the trigger wires to the switch box.
2. If the timing is off by any other degree, check the flywheel key.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the DVA output between the Green wire and Green/Whites from the switch box, also between the Blue and Blue/White wires while they are connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the wires from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect them to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad switch box.
2. Connect an inductive tachometer to each cylinder and compare the RPM readings at the RPM where the problem is occurring. If only one cylinder is dropping out, swap the ignition coil locations and retest. If the problem follows a coil, replace the coil. If it stays on the same spark plug, replace the switch box.
3. Check the flywheel magnets to see if one has come loose and moved.

Mercury
Two Cylinder Engines 1974-1985 (With the 332-4911 or 332-4733 Switch Box)
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the Orange (or Black/Yellow) stop wire and retest. If the ignition system now has spark, the stop circuit has a problem.
2. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output:
WIRE Read To RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
Blue Engine GND 3500-5500 180V or more
Red Engine GND 450-550 20V or more
Brown White* 140-160 0.5V or more

3. Check the flywheel for broken magnets.
ENGINE HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT RUN:
1. Index the flywheel and check the timing. If it is out by 180 degrees, swap the trigger wires to the switch box.
2. If the timing is off by any other degree, check the flywheel key.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the DVA output from the switch box on the Green wires while they are connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the wires from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect them to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad switch box.
2. Connect an inductive tachometer to each cylinder and compare the RPM readings at the RPM where the problem is occurring. If only one cylinder is dropping out, swap the ignition coil locations and retest. If the problem follows a coil, replace the coil. If it stays on the same spark plug, replace the switch box.
3. Check the flywheel magnets to see if one has come loose and moved.


Mercury Two Cylinder Engines 1979-1996 (With the 332-7452 Switch Box)
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the Black/Yellow stop wire and retest. If the ignition system now has spark, the stop circuit has a problem.
2. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output:
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
Black/Yellow Engine GND 3250-3650 2200-2400 180V or more Black/White Engine GND 150-250 200-250 25V or more
Brown/Yellow Brown/White 750-1400 925-1050 4V or more
Brown/Yellow Engine GND Open Open 1V or more
Brown/White Engine GND Open Open 1V or more
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad switch box.
2. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as shown below:
Wire Color Check To (Wire Color) Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire White wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected
Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
(*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low – disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low – the trigger is bad.
3. Connect a inductive tach to each cylinder and compare the RPM readings at the RPM where the problem is occurring. If only one cylinder is dropping out, swap the ignition coil locations and retest. If the problem follows a coil, replace the coil. If it stays on the same spark plug, replace the switch box.
4. Check the flywheel magnets to see if one has come loose and moved.

WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOUND 3000-4000 RPM:
1. Check the stator resistance and DVA output:
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
Black/Yellow Engine GND 3250-3650 2200-2400 180V or more Black/White Engine GND 150-250 200-250 25V or more
2. Connect a DVA meter to the Black/White wire/terminal and while under load, run the engine up to the RPM where the problem is occurring. The stator high speed voltage should increase with RPM. If the stator voltage falls off or if it does not increase with RPM, replace the stator.
3. Connect an inductive tach to each cylinder and compare the RPM readings at the RPM where the problem is occurring. If only one cylinder is dropping out, swap the ignition coil locations and retest. If the problem follows a coil, replace the coil. If it stays on the same spark plug, replace the switch box. If both cylinders become intermittent, replace the switch box.

Two Cylinder Engines 1994-1996 (With the 18495A4, A5, A6, A8, A11 or A13 Switch Box)
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition now has spark now, the stop circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.
2. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
3. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:
Black Stator
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
Blue Blue/White 3250-3650 500-600 180V or more
Red Red/White 75-90 28-32 25V or more
Red Stator
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 500-600 180V or more
Red Stator Adapter (Not Available from CDI)
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE DVA
Blue Engine GND OPEN 180V or more


Mercury Troubleshooting
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive an Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem cylinder.
2. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as shown below:
Wire Color Check To (Wire Color) Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire White wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected
Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
(*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low – disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low – the trigger is bad.
3. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:
1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely be the switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders misfiring usually indicate a bad stator.
2. Connect a DVA meter between the stator’s blue wire and blue/white wires. Perform a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (read the blue wire to engine ground if the engine has a red stator kit installed).
3. Connect a DVA meter between the stator’s red wire and red/white wires. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than the reading on the blue wire indicates a bad stator.
4. If both cylinders become intermittent, replace the switch box.
5. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
6. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.

Two Cylinder Engines 1994-1996 (With the 18495A9, A14, A16, A20, A21 or A30 Switch Box)
NOTE: This engine has a locked trigger arm. Therefore, the timing is controlled by the switch box and is adjusted according to the engine RPM. RPM limiting is done by retarding the timing at high RPM’s. Where possible, it is recommended that the ignition system be changed over to either the newer type ignition or the older type of ignition.
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition now has spark now, the stop circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.
2. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
3. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:
Stator
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
Blue Black 2900-3500 2200-2600 180V or more connected
Red Black 100-180 200-250 25V or more connected
Black Eng Gnd Open Open 2V or more connected
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive an Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem cylinder.
2. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as shown below:
Wire Color Check To (Wire Color) Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire White wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected
Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
(*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low – disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low – the trigger is bad.
3. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

Two Cylinder Engines 1994-1996 (With the 18495A9, A14, A16, A20, A21 or A30 Switch Box)
(Continued)
WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:
1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely be the switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders misfiring usually indicate a bad stator.
2. Connect a timing light to #1 cylinder and verify that the timing is advancing. Also check to make sure the timing is not retarding too early.
3. Connect a DVA meter between the stator’s blue wire and black wires. Perform a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (read the blue wire to engine ground if the engine has a red stator kit installed).
4. Connect a DVA meter between the stator’s red wire and black wires. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than the reading on the blue wire indicates a bad stator.
5. If both cylinders become intermittent, replace the switch box.
6. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
7. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.

Two Cylinder Engines 1994-2006 (With the 855721A3 & A4 Switch Box)
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition now has spark now, the stop circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.
2. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:

WIRE Read To OEM Ohms CDI Ohms DVA
Green/White White/Green 660-710 350-450 180V minimum connected
Green/White Eng Gnd Open Open None disconnected
White/Green Eng Gnd Open Open None disconnected
Brown/White Brown/Yellow 850-1100 850-1100 4V minimum connected
Brown/White Eng Gnd Open Open None disconnected
Brown/Yellow Eng Gnd Open Open None disconnected
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive an Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem cylinder.
2. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as shown below:
Wire Color Check To (Wire Color) Resistance DVA Reading
Brown/White Brown/Yellow 850-1100 4V minimum connected
Brown/White Eng Gnd Open 1V or more (*)
Brown/Yellow Eng Gnd Open 1V or more (*)
(*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low – disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low – the trigger is bad.
3. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:
1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely be the switch box or ignition coil.
2. Connect a DVA meter between the stator’s Green/White wire and White/Green wires. Perform a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs usually indicates a bad stator.
3. If both cylinders become intermittent, replace the switch box if the stator tests good.
4. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
5. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.


Mercury Troubleshooting
Three Cylinder Engines
1976-1996
Three Cylinder Engines Using a Single Switch Box and Three Ignition Coils
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
4. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:

Flywheel with Bolted-in Magnets
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
Blue Engine GND 5800-7000 2200-2400 180V or more
Red Engine GND 135-165 45-55 25V or more
Flywheel with Glued-in Magnets
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
Blue Engine GND 3250-3650 500-600 180V or more
Red Engine GND 75-90 28-32 25V or more
Red Stator Kit
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 500-600 180V or more
Blue Engine GND OPEN 180V or more
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect a inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders.
2. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire White/Black 800-1400 4V or more Connected
White wire White/Black 800-1400 4V or more Connected
Purple wire White/Black 800-1400 4V or more Connected
Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
Purple wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
(*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low – disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low – the trigger is bad.
.
3. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both terminals. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading symptom indicates a bad power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:
1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely be the switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders misfiring usually indicate a bad stator.
2. Connect a DVA meter to the stator’s blue wire and engine ground and do a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (blue to engine ground if the engine has a red stator kit installed).
3. Connect a DVA meter to the stator’s red wire and engine ground and do a running test. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than the reading on the blue wire indicates a bad stator.

HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder indicates a problem usually in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under “No spark or Intermittent on One or More Cylinders”.
2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.
4. Rotate the stator 1 bolt hole in either direction and retest.

WILL NOT IDLE BELOW 1500 RPM:
1. Check the Bias resistance from the Black/White terminal to engine ground. Reading should be 14-15,000 ohms.
2. Check for air leaks.

Four Cylinder Engines
(With Ignition Driver Distributors)
WARNING!! DO NOT CONNECT 12VDC TO THE IGNITION MODULE AS DC VOLTAGE WILL BURN OUT THE SWITCH BOX AND IGNITION DRIVER.
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the orange stop wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and mercury tilt switch.
2. Check the Ignition Driver resistance and DVA output:
Wire Color Read to Function Resistance DVA Reading
Red White wire Cranking Winding 400 ohms 180V+
Blue White wire High Speed Winding 10 Ohms 20V+
Green Engine Gnd Pack output N/A 150V+
White Common for Ignition Driver (DOES NOT CONNECT TO ENGINE GND)
3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

NO SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
If only one or two cylinders are not firing on this system, the problem is going to be either in the distributor cap or spark plug wires.
Four Cylinder Engines
1978-1996
Four Cylinder Engines Using a Single Switch Box and Four Ignition Coils
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wires AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and mercury tilt switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Verify the correct flywheel is installed.
4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
5. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as shown below:

Flywheel with Bolted-in Magnets
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
Blue Blue/White 5000-7000 2200-2400 180V or more
Red Red/White 125-155 45-55 25V or more
Flywheel with Glued-in Magnets
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
Blue Blue/White 3250-3650 500-600 180V or more
Red Red/White 75-90 28-32 25V or more
Red Stator
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 500-600 180V or more
Blue Blue OPEN 180V or more
Blue (Each) Ground OPEN 180V or more
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders.
2. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Purple wire White wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected
Brown wire White/Black wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected
Purple wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
White/Black wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*)
(*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low – disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low – the trigger is bad.

Note: If #1 and #2, or #3 and #4 are misfiring, check the trigger as described above. The trigger has two coils firing four cylinders. #1 & 2 share a trigger coil and #3 & 4 share a trigger coil. Also, the switch box is divided into two parts. The #1 and #2 cylinders are fired on one side and #3 and #4 are fired from the other side of the switch box. If the trigger tests are okay according to the chart above, but you have two cylinders not firing (either #1 and #2, or #3 and #4), the switch box or stator is bad.


Mercury Troubleshooting
3. If you have two cylinders not firing (either #1 and #2, or #3 and #4), switch the stator leads end to end on the switch box (red with red/white and blue with blue/white). If the problem moves to the other cylinders, the stator is bad. It the problem stayed on the same cylinders, the switch box is likely bad.
4. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both terminals. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading symptom indicates a bad power pack.
ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:
1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. If two cylinders on the same end of the switch box are dropping out, the problem is likely going to be either the switch box or trigger. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely be the switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders misfiring usually indicate a bad stator.
2. Connect a DVA meter to the stator’s blue wire and blue/white wires and do a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (Check from blue to blue if the engine has a red stator kit installed).
3. Connect a DVA meter to the red wire and red/white wires and do a running test. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than the reading on the blue wires indicates a bad stator.
HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder indicates a problem usually in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under “No fire or Intermittent on One or More Cylinders”.
2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.

WILL NOT IDLE BELOW 1500 RPM:
1. Index the flywheel and check the timing on all cylinders. If the timing cannot be adjusted correctly or if the timing is off on one cylinder, replace the trigger.
2. Check for air leaks.
3. Check synchronization of the carburetors.

Inline 6 and V6 Carbureted Engines Using Dual Switch Boxes and Six Ignition Coils
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wires AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

NO SPARK ON ONE BANK (3 OF 6 ON THE INLINE L-6):
1. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as shown below:

9 to 16 Amp Battery Charging Capacity
WIRE (Read to Engine ground) OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
Blue 5000-7000 2200-2400 180V or more
Blue/White 5000-7000 2200-2400 180V or more
Red 90-200 30-90 25V or more
Red/White 90-200 30-90 25V or more
40 Amp Battery Charging Capacity
WIRE (Read to Engine ground) OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
Blue 3200-4200 2200-2400 150V or more
Blue/White 3200-4200 2200-2400 150V or more
Red 90-140 90-110 20V or more
Red/White 90-140 90-110 20V or more
2. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both terminals on all cylinders. If the reading is low on one bank and the stator voltage is good, the switch box is usually bad.
(Note: A final test to verify which component is bad is to swap the stator leads from one switch box to the other. If the problem moves, the stator is bad. If the same bank still does not fire, the switch box is usually bad.)
3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. Connect a spark gap tester and verify which cylinders are misfiring. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders.
2. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as shown below:


Mercury Troubleshooting

BLACK SLEEVE TO YELLOW SLEEVE Resistance DVA Reading
Brown wire White wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected
White wire Purple wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected
Purple wire Brown wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected
Service Note: You should get a high or open resistance reading to engine ground from each wire, but you will get a DVA reading of approximately 1-2 Volts. This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For example, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low – disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low – the trigger is bad.
3. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both terminals. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading symptom indicates a bad power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:
1. Connect an inductive RPM meter to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. If two or more cylinders on the same bank are dropping out, the problem is likely going to be either the stator or the switch box. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely mean the switch box or ignition coil is defective.
2. Check the stator resistance:
9 to 16 Amp Battery Charging Capacity
WIRE (Read to Engine ground) OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE
Blue 5000-7000 2200-2400
Blue/White 5000-7000 2200-2400
Red 90-200 30-90
Red/White 90-200 30-90
40 Amp Battery Charging Capacity
WIRE (Read to Engine ground) OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE
Blue 3400-4200 2200-2400
Blue/White 3400-4200 2200-2400
Red 90-140 90-110
Red/White 90-140 90-110
3. Connect a DVA meter to the Blue wire and do a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. Repeat for the blue/white wire and compare the readings.
WIRE (Read to Engine ground) CRANKING 1000 RPM 3000 RPM
Blue 100-265 195-265 255-345
Blue/White 100-265 195-265 255-345
Red 25-50 120-160 230-320
Red/White 25-50 120-160 230-320
White/Black* 1-6 3-15 10-30
- This voltage is read with an analog DC volt meter – Not a DVA meter.
4. Check the trigger as follows:
WIRE Read to OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA @ CRANKING
Brown (Black Sleeve) White (Yellow Sleeve) 1100-1400 800-1000 4V or more
White (Black Sleeve) Purple (Yellow Sleeve) 1100-1400 800-1000 4V or more
Purple (Black Sleeve) Brown (Yellow Sleeve) 1100-1400 800-1000 4V or more
Service Note: You should get a high or open resistance reading to engine ground from each wire, but you will get a DVA reading of approximately 1-2 Volts. This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For example, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low – disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low – the trigger is bad.
High Speed Miss:
1. Connect an inductive RPM meter to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually indicates a problem in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under ‘No fire or Intermittent on One or More Cylinders’.
2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.

Two Cylinder Engines 1996-2006
Engines Using a Combination Switch Box and Ignition Coil (CDM Modules)
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wires from the harness and retest. If the engine’s ignition sparks, the stop circuit has a fault- check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Swap the White/Green and Green White stator wire and retest. If the problem moves to the other cylinder, the stator is likely bad.
3. Disconnect one CDM module at a time and using a set of piercing probes and jumper wires- short the stator and trigger wire in the CDM connector to engine ground. Retest. If the other module starts sparking, the CDM you unplugged is bad.
4. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.
5. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.
6. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as follows:

WIRE Read to OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 500-600 180V or more
7. Check the resistance of the CDM as follows:
Red Meter Lead Black Meter Lead Reading
CDM Pin # A C 700-1300 Ohms
CDM Pin # D A DIODE*
CDM Pin # A D DIODE*
CDM Pin # D B DIODE*
CDM Pin # B D DIODE*
CDM Pin # A B DIODE*
CDM Pin # B A DIODE*
High Tension Lead A 700-1300 Ohms
* Diode readings are to be read one way, then reverse the leads and read again. You should get a low reading in one direction and a higher reading in the other.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. If the cylinders are only misfiring up above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders.
2. Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger DVA output as shown below:
Wire Color Check To (Wire Color) Resistance DVA Reading
White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more
Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more
3. If # 1 is not sparking, swap the White/Green and Green White stator wire and retest. If the problem moves to the #2 cylinder, the stator is likely bad. If no change, swap locations with #2 and see if the problem moves. If it does, the module is bad. A continued no spark condition on the same cylinder indicates a bad trigger.
4. Check the resistance of the CDM as follows:
Red Meter Lead Black Meter Lead Reading
CDM Pin # A C 700-1300 Ohms
CDM Pin # D A DIODE*
CDM Pin # D B DIODE*
CDM Pin # A B DIODE*
High Tension Lead A 700-1300 Ohms
* Diode readings are to be read one way, then reverse the leads and read again. You should get a low reading in one direction and a higher reading in the other.

High Speed Miss:
1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually indicates a problem in the trigger or CDM module.
2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracked or broken magnets.

Three Cylinder Engines
1996-2006 Engines Using CDM Modules
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wires from the harness and retest. If the engine’s ignition now sparks, the stop circuit has a fault- check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Disconnect one CDM module at a time and see if the other modules start sparking. If they do, the module you just unplugged is bad.
3. If the bottom two CDM modules are not sparking, swap the connection between the top and middle cylinder. If the middle cylinder starts sparking, replace the top CDM.
4. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.
5. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.
6. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:

WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 500-600 180V or more
7. Check the resistance of the CDM as follows:
Red Meter Lead Black Meter Lead Reading
CDM Pin # A C 700-1300 Ohms
CDM Pin # D A DIODE*
CDM Pin # A D DIODE*
CDM Pin # D B DIODE*
CDM Pin # B D DIODE*
CDM Pin # A B DIODE*
CDM Pin # B A DIODE*
High Tension Lead A 700-1300 Ohms
* Diode readings are to be read one way, then reverse the leads and read again. You should get a low reading in one direction and a higher reading in the other.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders.
2. Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger DVA output as shown below:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Purple wire Engine GND Open 1V or more
White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more
Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more
NOTE: These triggers have the bias circuitry internally built-in, therefore you cannot measure the resistance like you can measure on the older engines.
3. If # 1 CDM module is not sparking, disconnect the #2 CDM module and see if the #1 CDM module starts sparking. If it does, the module you just unplugged is bad. If it does not, reconnect #2, then disconnect the #3 CDM module and see if the #1 module starts sparking. If it does, the module you just unplugged is bad.
4. If there is no spark ire on either # 2 or #3, swap locations with #1 and see if the problem moves. If it does, the module is bad. A continued no spark on the same cylinder indicates a bad trigger.
HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder indicates a problem usually in the trigger or CDM module.
2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.
4. Use the diagram below to help in locating the area where the problem may be. Remember a short in #1 can cause either #2 and #3 not to have spark. By the same reason, a problem in either #2 or #3 can cause #1 not to have spark.


Mercury/Force CDM Troubleshooting the
Four Cylinder Engines
1996-2006 Engines Using CDM Modules
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wires from the harness and RPM Limiter. Retest. If the engine’s ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
4. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:

WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 500-600 180V or more
5. Check the resistance of the CDM as follows:
Red Meter Lead Black Meter Lead Reading
CDM Pin # A C 700-1300 Ohms
CDM Pin # D A DIODE*
CDM Pin # A D DIODE*
CDM Pin # D B DIODE*
CDM Pin # B D DIODE*
CDM Pin # A B DIODE*
CDM Pin # B A DIODE*
High Tension Lead A 700-1300 Ohms
Note: Diode readings are to be read one way, then reverse the leads and read again. You should get a low reading in one direction and a higher reading in the other.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive RPM meter to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders.
2. Disconnect the CDM’s one at a time and see if you get spark back on the problem cylinders.
3. Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger DVA output as given below:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading
Purple wire Engine GND Open 3V or more
White wire Engine GND Open 3V or more
Brown wire Engine GND Open 3V or more
White/Black wire Engine GND Open 3V or more
NOTE: These triggers have the bias circuitry internally built-in, therefore you cannot measure the resistance like you can measure on the older engines. In addition, these engines use four triggering coils versus the two triggering coils used on the older engines.
4. Disconnect one of the CDM modules that are firing one at a time and see if the dead CDM starts firing. If it does, the CDM you just unplugged is bad.

High Speed Miss:
1. Connect an inductive RPM meter to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually indicates a problem in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under “No spark or intermittent spark on any cylinder”.
2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.
4. Use the wiring diagram below as an aid in locating areas where problems may occur. Remember a short in either #1 or #2 can cause either # 3 and #4 not to have spark.

Six Cylinder Engines
1996-2005 2.0L and 2.5 L Engines Using CDM Modules
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Inspect the spark plug wires, boots and spark plugs. Check for chafing on the wiring and harnesses.
2. Clean and inspect CDM ground wire connection to engine ground
3. Disconnect the Black/Yellow stop wires from the harness and RPM Limiter. Retest. If the engine’s ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch. If there is still no spark, disconnect the CDM’s one at a time and see if you get spark back on the other cylinders. A shorted stop circuit in one CDM will prevent ALL cylinders from sparking.
4. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.
5. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
6. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:

WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 500-600 180V or more
7. Check the resistance of each of the CDM’s as follows:
Red Meter Lead Black Meter Lead Reading
CDM Pin # A C 700-1300 Ohms
CDM Pin # D A DIODE*
CDM Pin # A D DIODE*
CDM Pin # D B DIODE*
CDM Pin # B D DIODE*
CDM Pin # A B DIODE*
CDM Pin # B A DIODE*
High Tension Lead A 700-1300 Ohms
Note: Diode readings are to be read one way, then reverse the leads and read again. You should get a low reading in one direction and a higher reading in the other.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR TWO CYLINDERS:
1. Inspect the spark plug wires, boots and spark plugs. Check for chafing on the wiring and harnesses
2. Clean and inspect CDM ground wire connection to engine ground.
3. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive RPM meter to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders.
4. Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger Resistance and DVA output as given below:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color OEM Resistance CDI Resistance DVA Reading
Purple wire Blue 1100-1400 850-1050 4V or more
White wire Red 1100-1400 850-1050 4V or more
Brown wire Yellow 1100-1400 850-1050 4V or more

High Speed Miss:
1. Connect an inductive RPM meter to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually indicates a problem in the CDM module.
2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.
4. Index the flywheel and check the timing on ALL cylinders. On carbureted models, the control module rev limi function starts to retard timing in sequence (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 1) at 5800-6000 RPM. The control module will retard the timing each cylinder up to 30 degrees (starting with #2) and then stop firing that cylinder if the RPM is still above the limit. It will continue to retard, then shut down each cylinder until the engine drops below the limit.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON #1, #2 and #3 OR #4, #5 and #6 CYLINDERS:
1. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
2. Disconnect the CDM’s one at a time and see if you get spark back on the problem cylinders.
3. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:

WIRE Read To OEM CDI DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 ohms 500-600 ohms 180V or more connected
White/Green Engine Gnd Open Open 180V or more connected
White/Green Engine Gnd Open Open Less than 2 V disconnected
Green/White Engine Gnd Open Open 180V or more connected
Green/White Engine Gnd Open Open Less than 2 V disconnected


Mercury/Force CDM Troubleshooting
3. Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger Resistance and DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color OEM Resistance CDI Resistance DVA Reading
Purple wire Blue 1100-1400 850-1050 4V or more
White wire Red 1100-1400 850-1050 4V or more
Brown wire Yellow 1100-1400 850-1050 4V or more
4. Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger voltage going to the CDM’s:
Wire Color Check to Wire Color OEM Resistance CDI Resistance DVA Reading
Purple wire Engine GND Open Open 3V or more
White wire Engine GND Open Open 3V or more
Brown wire Engine GND Open Open 3V or more
Blue wire Engine GND Open Open 3V or more
Red wire Engine GND Open Open 3V or more
Yellow wire Engine GND Open Open 3V or more
5. The connection guide below will assist you in locating areas where problems can occur. Remember a short in either #1, #2 or #3 can cause either # 4, #5 and #6 not to have spark.

The CDI peak reading voltage adapter is specifically designed to work with shielded Digital Multimeters. This adapter will simplify the testing of electronic ignition systems, stators, sensors and charging systems. The DVA readings will be approximately the same as any other DVA meter and the specifications listed in the service manuals can be followed without problems (Hopefully a little easier to you).
The CDI piercing probe set (511-9770) and the pack load resister (511-9775) are highly recommended for use with this adapter.
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Plug the adapter into the shielded Digital Multimeter with the (+) rib side pin in the (V, Ohms) jack and the other pin in the (COM) jack.
2. Set the digital voltmeter to DC Volts (the purpose of the adapter is to convert and store the voltage so that it can be read by a meter).
3. Connect the probes to the component to be measured.
NOTE: The adapter will automatically compensate for polarity and all readings will be peak voltage.
See the following pages for readings of Chrysler, Force, Mercury, OMC (Johnson/Evinrude), OMC Sea Drive and Yamaha engines. Other ignitions can be tested using test results given by the manufacturer of the equipment or by comparing a known good system to a suspect one. Please forward any additional readings you would like to have included in future printings.

Three and Four Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the stop wire AT THE PACK.
2. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger.
3. Using thGlossary of Terms
ADI – Alternator Driven Ignition, consists of a flywheel, stator, trigger and ignition module.
ADTC - After Top Dead Center Reference on ignition timing.
BTDC - Before Top Dead Center Reference on ignition timing.
CD Ignition – Capacitive Discharge Ignition. The capacitor stores the power developed by a stator or inverter and uses a SCR to deliver the power to the ignition coil.
CDM – Capacitive Discharge Module. The CDM is a combination of the switch box and ignition coil.
Crank - Refers to the engine being turned over with the starter, not running. Spark plug wires are usually connected to a spark gap tester.
DVA – Direct Voltage Adapter. Also known as Peak voltage. The term refers to the peak voltage as read by a specialized meter or a multimeter using a adapter to convert the peak voltage in the ignition system to a DC value. Regular meters cannot read the voltages due to the frequency and duration of the pulses in the system.
Power Pack – Term used by Johnson/Evinrude for the ignition module.
RPM – Revolutions per minute. The number of times the engine rotates in one minute.
S.L.O.W. – Speed Limiting Oil Warning system. Limits the RPM of the engine to approximately 2500 RPM in order to reduce the damage to the engine caused by a no oil or overheat condition.
Spark Tester - Device used to check for spark from the ignition coil to the spark plug. Testers are normally available in 1, 4, 6 and 8 cylinder configurations.
Switch Box – Term used for Force, Mariner and Mercury ignition modules.
W.O.T. – Wide Open Throttle.




































77 CDI ELECTRONICS
OUTBOARD SERVICE BULLETIN
12/06/2003 CDI Bulletin # 2276 Rev.1
Models affected: Johnson/Evinrude 60 HP 1986 (CE) through 1994 (ER)
Johnson/Evinrude 65 HP 1987 (CU) through 1994 (ER)
Johnson/Evinrude 70 HP 1989 (CD) through 1994 (ER)
Problem:
The engine and electrical system can become damaged by overheating when air is trapped in the upper half of the cooling system. Trapped air can cause the upper cylinder or regulator/rectifier to overheat, resulting in damage to the piston or regulator (also damaging the stator). Air can become trapped when:
1. The engine is idling with a blocked or restricted thermostat bypass hole.
2. The engine is operated in aerated water, such as a pontoon or deck boat wakes.

SOLUTION:
Relocate the water pump indicator outlet tee (for the pee tube) from the side of the engine block to the top of the engine cylinder block. This allows air to be vented from the top of the cooling system and helps ensure an adequate water level when idling.
If the engine does not have a threaded hole located in the top of the cylinder block, please follow the steps below:
1. Remove the indicator hose from the outlet tee and discard.
2. Remove the outlet tee.
3. Install a 1/8th inch NPT brass or aluminum pipe plug into the hole where the tee was located (use gel-seal on the threads). (See fig. 1)
4. Measure 2 inches forward from the rear corner of the exhaust manifold cover (ref “A”) and 1-3/8th inches from the exhaust cover gasket (Ref to “B”). Mark the intersection with a center punch. (See fig. 2).
5. Mark an 11/32nd (Letter “R”) drill bit ½ inch from the tip (to prevent damage to the water jacket) as a depth gauge. Grease the tip and drill a hole through the casting. The grease will help prevent shavings from entering the cooling system.
6. Grease the tip of an 1/8th NPT tap and thread the hole.
7. Apply gel-seal to the threads of the original tee and install it in the hole you just tapped. Position the tee so that the indicator nipple is facing the back of the engine.
8. Install a new piece of 3/16th hose (19 inches long) from the tee to the indicator.


Modified Engine Wiring Diagrams for CDI Electronics Components Modified Engine Wiring Diagrams for CDI Electronics Components Modified Engine Wiring Diagrams for CDI Electronics Components e CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, or CD-77 and 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, reading s should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 – 800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR).
4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator and trigger resistance; trigger wire sets should read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-0.5V or more), the stator should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow.
2. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.
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